I’m back with a new mug rug crochet pattern that’s perfect for the spooky season! My Boo! Crochet Halloween Mug Rug Pattern is a festive Halloween crochet mug rug pattern that features the image of the word BOO!, framed but a fun pattern above and below the word.
And, like all of my other crochet coaster and mug rug patterns, there are no ends to weave in at the end. This handmade mug rug is quick and easy to make and accessible for beginners. Even if this is your first tapestry crochet project, this is a great first project to try out as it’s small and uses only two different colours.
Pin this for later Save
Purchase an inexpensive ad-free PDF version of this pattern which includes the written version and the colourwork chart in my Ravelry and Etsy shops.
Crochet mug rugs make great gifts and are such a quick project you can make one in an afternoon. This Halloween-themed mug rug can be used all fall season to protect your tables from hot drinks and the condensation of a cold drink while looking super cute.
Before we get started on making this fun home décor item, let’s cover a little bit about tapestry crochet.
Tapestry Crochet Technique
To create the image of the word Boo! and the framing design on your Boo! crochet halloween mug rug, we’re going to use a colourwork crochet technique called tapestry crochet. This is a technique that utilizes a chart to illustrate the image and assign a colour to each stitch in the chart and uses only basic stitches.
This easy crochet pattern is a great way to start with tapestry crochet projects as it uses only two colors. The more colours you have in tapestry crochet patterns, the more complex managing the yarns are so having only two colors makes this a beginner-friendly pattern.
How to Read the Chart
Right-handed crocheters will need to read the tapestry chart from right to left for each row. Left-handed crocheters will need to read the chart from left to right for each row.
Each square in the chart represents one stitch in your project. The entire mug rug is done in single crochet stitches, so no fancy stitches are required to create this easy pattern.
Creating cute mug rugs like this couldn’t be easier so take your time and have fun!
If you’d prefer to have the colour changes written out for you in words, the ad-free PDF version of the pattern includes both the colour chart and the full written version of the pattern.
Ad-free PDF versions of this crochet halloween coaster pattern are available in both my Ravelry and Etsy shops.
Are Both Sides of These Halloween Mug Rugs the Same?
No. With tapestry crochet projects, there are very clear right sides and wrong sides of the fabric. The right side will face you for the whole project and show the entire image clearly.
The wrong side will show the image though, it will be less clear and you may see signs of your color changes on the back.
If you don’t like that the back of the coaster isn’t as pretty, you can use some felt or fabric to line the back. I never do that because the wrong side is against the table most of the time so I never see it
Other Things To Know
Gauge isn’t critical for this crochet project, but keep in mind that not matching gauge will affect the size of your project and how much yarn that you will use. Yarn yardage given for this project is approximate and based on the gauge given.
If you find that the yarn that you’re carrying behind your stitches showing through, you may want to try going down a hook size or two or adjusting your tension so that any peek-throughs are minimal.
Other Crochet Halloween Mug Rugs & Coaster Patterns:
If you’d like to make a set of adorable mug rugs for your Halloween home decor, I have some other mug rug patterns that are perfect for the Halloween holiday season (with more being added each week this month).
They are all the same size and utilize the same tapestry techniques:
- The Ghoster Coaster – free pattern
- Halloween Pumpkin Crochet Coaster – premium pattern, available in my Ravelry shop and in my Etsy shop.
- Spooky Spider Mug Rug – free pattern
- Crochet Witch Hat Mug Rug – free pattern.
Boo! Crochet Halloween Mug Rug Pattern
Disclaimer:
Feel free to sell the finished product created by this pattern but please provide pattern credit back to me when posting online, and please provide a link to my blog: https://theloopylamb.com. Please do not resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern in any printed or digital form, or claim this pattern as your own original design. Please do not use my photos when selling your finished items. This pattern is for personal use only.
Skill Level:
- Easy
Terminology:
- U.S. Terminology
Supplies:
- E / 3.5 mm Crochet Hook
- WeCrochet Dishie (100% Cotton Yarn, Worsted Weight (4), 190yds/174m, 100g/3.5oz), 1 Ball each of the following colors:
- Color A: Black (approx. 38 yds/35 m (0.71 oz/20g))
- Color B: Clementine (approx. 23 yds/21 m (0.42 oz/12g))
- Scissors
- Tapestry Needle
Abbreviations:
(click links below to view a photo and video tutorial for that stitch)
- BLO = Back Loop Only
- CH = Chain
- FO = Finish Off
- SC = Single Crochet
- SL ST = Slip Stitch
- ST = Stitch
- YO = Yarn Over
Finished Size:
- 5.5” tall by 5.5” wide not including fringe
Gauge:
- 23 sts x 16 rows = 4 inches
NOTES:
- Gauge is not vital to the pattern but it may affect the size of your project and the amount of yarn required
- This pattern is worked from the bottom of the coaster to the top.
- A 3.5mm crochet hook is the recommended for this pattern but I suggest using whatever hook size needed to create a tight, closed fabric free of holes, or whatever hook size needed to match the given gauge.
- If you find that you have holes in your fabric or the yarn you’re carrying is showing through using the recommended hook size, try going down a hook size until you create a tight fabric with no holes in it and no stuffing is showing through.
- If you find that you have holes in your fabric or the yarn you’re carrying is showing through using the recommended hook size, try going down a hook size until you create a tight fabric with no holes in it and no stuffing is showing through.
- Reading the written color changes, the number next to the color in brackets indicates how many stitches in that color to work.
- For example, (Black) x 5, (White) x 1 means you’ll work 5 stitches in Black and then 1 stitch in White.
- For example, (Black) x 5, (White) x 1 means you’ll work 5 stitches in Black and then 1 stitch in White.
- Reading the Colorwork Chart: Read the chart starting in the bottom right-hand corner of the chart (for right-handed people) and start in the bottom left-hand corner of the chart for left-handed people.
- Each box in the color chart = 1 SC stitch. Work all stitches in the BLO. Each new round starts in the first box on the right-hand side of the chart for right-handed people and on the left-hand side of the chart for left-handed people and finishes in the last box of that round on the opposite side.
- Each box in the color chart = 1 SC stitch. Work all stitches in the BLO. Each new round starts in the first box on the right-hand side of the chart for right-handed people and on the left-hand side of the chart for left-handed people and finishes in the last box of that round on the opposite side.
- Color changes are done using the last YO of the last stitch before the color change is indicated. Find a color change tutorial here.
- Carry unused yarn colors and crochet over them as you work.
- This entire project is worked in rows worked in the BLO (back loops only).
- When reattaching your yarn at the start of a Row, attach your SL ST under both loops of the first ST or use a standing SC/SC Join stitch, worked under both loops to replace the SL ST join and the first SC stitch of the Row. Find an SC Join Tutorial on my blog here.
- When starting each row, leave a tail a few inches long of both main colours worked in that row hanging on the edge of your work so you will have fringe on both sides.
- Each row ends by fastening off both colours, leaving a long tail of a few inches to create your fringe (you’ll trim it up at the end).
- The right side/front side of the project is always facing you. Do not turn your work.
- Start Rows 2-22 by reattaching the main color yarn to the first ST of the previous Row and carrying the yarn inside your stitches.
Grab an inexpensive, printable ad-free PDF of this pattern which includes the written pattern and a large colourwork chart in my Ravelry and Etsy shops.
Boo! Halloween Crochet Mug Rug Pattern
Using Black, CH 32.
FO.
Fringe:
Holding a few strands of the fringe together at a time, on one side, tie an overhand knot to create tassels along the side of your work and secure the yarn ends.
Once all the “tassels” are created, trim the fringe so it’s all the same length.
Steam block, if desired.
That’s it! I hope that you enjoyed making my Boo! Halloween Crochet Mug Rug and you’re feeling ready for thes spooky season.
I’d love to see your finished coaster! If you share your crochet projects on social media, please tag me @theloopylamb and/or use the hashtag #theloopylamb so I can see your project and share it as well.
Facebook: www.facebook.com/TheLoopyLamb
Instagram: www.instagram.com/TheLoopyLamb
YouTube: The Loopy Lamb YouTube Channel
Pinterest: www.pinterest.com/theloopylamb
Newsletter: Sign up for my newsletter!
Other Free Crochet Coaster and Mug Rug Patterns available on my site:
I forgot about the backloop only instruction and crocheted all in normal single crochets and I think it made it look more solid and less curvy. It looks great on the corkboard!
After completing it I wanted to make another one with BLO to compare the results. It might be just my lack of skill, but as soon as I started, I noticed I hate the outcome because of how uneven it was and how created holes at the start of the new rows.
I might try in the future to make one with BLO except the first and last stitch in the row, I wonder how it would look like then.
Thank you for the pattern! I had fun making it!
Hi Anna,
I’m so glad you enjoyed the pattern! When it comes to holes in BLO, tension can definitely make a big difference. You might find that using a smaller hook or tightening your tension helps reduce those gaps. Another thing to watch for is pulling too hard on the back loop stitches, which can stretch the fabric and create unwanted holes.
In this pattern, the notes recommend working under both loops for the first and last stitches in each row, so if you’ve been working those in BLO, that could be why you’re seeing holes at the edges.
Thanks again for sharing your experience, and I’m really happy to hear you had fun with the project! I’d love to hear how your next one turns out.
Since each row is finished off and the next row’s yarn attached at the beginning, are we to crochet all rows from right to left (for right-handers)? Or do we work in alternating rows as we normally would if we turned our work and continued with the same yarn? The chart has row numbers alternating, as if we turned our work.
Yes, all the rows are finished off and the next row is reattached. I accidentally uploaded the incorrect chart but it has been corrected. Thanks for letting me know.