Cute Free Crochet Penguin Pattern – Parker Penguin

If you’ve been wanting to learn how to crochet a penguin, then you’re in the right place my friend.  Use my free crochet penguin pattern to make Parker Penguin, an adorable amigurumi penguin made with faux fur yarn that will melt even the iciest of hearts.  

This toy uses basic stitches so if you know how to do the single crochet stitch, then making your own amigurumi penguin is within your skill set.  

If this is your first time using faux fur yarn, don’t worry: I’ve included lots of tips and tricks throughout this free crochet penguin pattern to help you be as successful as possible. 

**This post may contain affiliate links which means that I may earn a small commission from purchases made through these links at zero cost to you. All opinions are my own.**

Pin free crochet penguin pattern for Later HERE

Prefer an ad-free experience or would like to print this pattern out?  Grab the Parker the Penguin PDF pattern in my Ravelry and Etsy shops.

The Yarn Used to Create this Free Crochet Penguin Pattern

As expected for making crochet penguins, we’ll be using a black yarn and a white yarn for the body and wings and a yellow yarn for the beak and feet. For this free crochet penguin pattern, I’ve used Fable Fur and Brava Worsted yarn from We Crochet. Although this is an easy pattern, if this is your first time using faux fur yarn, I highly recommend that you check out my Tips and Tricks for Working with Faux Fur Yarn post or the video below. This will help you to hit the ground running and avoid frustration working with this yarn.

If you want to try another amigurumi pattern with a little less shaping than this pattern, check out my pattern for Sir Clucksalot or my Crochet Owl Lovey free patterns. I have a ton of free amigurumi patterns using fur yarn that are perfect for beginners so click here to check them out.

Worsted weight acrylic yarn is used to create the feet and beak for Parker Penguin. I used Brava Worsted Weight in Canary from WeCrochet and you can find that at crochet.com. With this free crochet penguin pattern, gauge isn’t vital to the pattern however, it does help you get the most success possible. By crocheting to gauge, you can ensure that your beak and feet will be the proper size for your amigurumi penguin.

How to Crochet A Penguin

To crochet a penguin with this free crochet pattern, we’re going to start by working the body of our penguin from the bottom-up.

Then we will work on crocheting a white patch that we will sew onto the body to act as a tummy/face patch.

Then we will crochet our wings with faux fur yarn and finish off by crocheting our feet and beak with worsted weight yarn.

And finally, we will seam all the separate pieces together.

Check out these other free amigurumi patterns

• Otis the Owl
  
  
• Salty the Seal
  
  
• Bearrison Bear
  
  

Disclaimer:

Feel free to sell the item created by this pattern but please provide pattern credit back to me when posting online, and please provide a link to my blog: https://theloopylamb.com.  Please do not resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern in any printed or digital form, or claim this pattern as your own original design.  Please do not use my photos when selling your finished items.   This pattern is for personal use and is not to be mass produced.

Without further ado, let’s get to the free pattern. Happy crocheting!

Skill Level:  

• Easy

Terminology:

• US Terminology

Supplies:

• E / 3.5 mm crochet hook (or hook size needed to obtain gauge)
  
  
• I / 5.5 mm crochet hook (or hook size needed to obtain gauge)
  
  
• 71 yds/65 m (3.5oz/100g) of WeCrochet Fairy Tale Fur in Eisbar
  
  
• 34 yds/31 m (1.6 oz/48g) of WeCrochet Fairy Tale Fur in Corvo
  
  
• 40 yds/37 m (0.6 oz/18g) of WeCrochet Brava Worsted Weight in Canary
  
  
• 24 mm Safety Eyes – I used Frosted Sky Eyes from Chateau Bornais Crochet
  
  
• Fiber-Fill Stuffing
  
  
• Stitch Markers
  
  
• Sewing Pins (Optional)
  
  
• Scissors
  
  
• Tapestry Needle / Yarn Needle
  
  
• Wire Brush (Optional)
  
  
  

Abbreviations:

​(click the underlined abbreviations in this list to view a photo and video tutorial links for that stitch/technique)

• CH(s) = Chain(s)
  
  
• FLO = Front Loop Only
  
  
• FO = Finish Off
  
  
• MC = Magic Circle / Magic Ring
  
  
• RS = Right Side
  
  
• SC = Single Crochet
  
  
• SCDEC = Single Crochet Decrease / Single Crochet Two Stitches Together
  
  
• SCINC = Single Crochet Increase / 2 Single Crochet Stitches in the Same Stitch
  
  
• SL ST = Slip Stitch
  
  
• ST(s) = Stitch(es)
  
  
• WS = Wrong Side

Special Techniques:

• Invisible Join: FO leaving a tail that is at least 5 – 6 inches in length.  Thread the tail onto a tapestry needle.  Place the tapestry needle through the top of the 2^nd ST from front to back and pull through.  Place tip of needle into top of the last ST of the round, under the back loop of the stitch, and pull through to the back of the work.  Weave in the end.  Check out my invisible join tutorial.

Finished size:

• Approximately 9.5” tall and 10.5” wide from wing tip to wing tip

Gauge:

• Fable Fur in SC: 5 sts x 4 rows = 2”
  
  
• Brava in SC: 6 sts x 6 rounds = 1”

NOTES:

• A 5.5 mm hook is recommended for the fur sections but if you find you are unable to feel your stitches through the fur, you can adjust your crochet hook size until you can more easily feel where to place your stitches.  This may however, affect your gauge and therefore, the amount of yarn needed. 
  
  
• Gauge is not vital to project as long as the same tension is maintained throughout the project and there are no holes that stuffing can be seen through.  Yarn amounts are based on the gauge given so not matching gauge may affect the amount of yarn needed for the project.  Matching gauge will however, ensure that the parts made in the worsted weight yarn are appropriately sized for your fur yarn parts.
  
  
• Reading the Pattern: Instructions in brackets: I.e.: (SC, SCINC) x 6, this means you’ll work 1 SC stitch in the first stitch and then SCINC in the next and you’ll repeat that pattern a total of 6 times.
  
  
  • Numbers indicated in () at the end of a Round/Row indicate the number of stitches you should have at the end of the Round/Row. I recommend counting your stitches at the end of each Round/Row before moving on to the next.
    
    
• Where SC followed by a number (i.e. SC 14), you’ll work 1 SC stitch in the next 14 stitches or chains, unless the pattern specifies to work those stitches into the same stitch or chain.
  
  
  
• The Body & Head, Beak and Feet are crocheted in continuous rounds (unless stated otherwise).  Do not join at the end of the row, unless indicated.  A stitch marker is used to keep track of the beginning of the round.
  
  
• All pieces made in the Fable Fur are worked and sewn onto the project with the wrong side facing out to show the better-looking side of the fur. 
  
  
• When making a Magic Circle with faux fur yarn, do not crochet over the tail. 
  
  
• If this is your first time working with faux fur yarns, I recommend checking out my tips & tricks for working with faux fur yarns video or written tips and tricks post.
  
  
• For a cleaner SCDEC when using worsted weight yarn, do your SCDEC under the front loops only of each stitch rather than under both loops.  This is often referred to as an invisible decrease. Check out my invisible decrease tutorial.
  
  
• Sewing pins are suggested to be used to assist with holding pieces in place while sewing them together
  
  
• After completing your toy, if you would like to fluff up the fur or make any potential lines in the tummy patch less noticeable, use a wire brush to gently brush the fur.
  
   
• Color changes are done using the last yarn over of the last stitch before the color change is indicated.  Learn how to change colors in my tutorial here.

Purchase an ad-free PDF version of this pattern in my Ravelry and Etsy shops.

Head & Body

Round 1: Using Corvo and 5.5mm hook, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC. (6)

Round 2: (SCINC) x 6 (12)

Round 3: (SC, SCINC) x 6 (18)

Round 4: SC, SCINC, (SC 2, SCINC) x 5, SC (24)

Rounds 5 – 12: SC around (24)  – Start stuffing, adding a bit more stuffing every few rounds

Round 13: SC, SCDEC, (SC 2, SCDEC) x 5, SC (18)

Round 14: SC around (18)

Round 15: SC, SCINC, (SC 2, SCINC) x 5, SC (24)

Rounds 16 – 23: SC around (24)

Round 24: SC, SCDEC, (SC 2, SCDEC) x 5, SC (18)

Round 25: (SC, SCDEC) x 6 (12)

Round 26: (SCDEC) x 6 (6)

Finish stuffing and FO leaving a long tail. 

Weave tail through STs of last Round to close up hole.  Weave in ends.

Tummy & Face Patch

Row 1: Using Eisbar and 5.5mm hook, CH 7.  SC in the 2nd chain from the hook and in each ST across.  (6)

Row 2:  CH 1 and turn.  SCINC in the first ST, SC in the next 4 STs, SCINC in the last (8)

Row 3: CH 1 and turn.  SCINC in the first ST, SC in the next 6 STs, SCINC in the last (10)

Row 4: CH 1 and turn.  SCINC in the first ST, SC in the next 8 STs, SCINC in the last (12)

Rows 5 – 11: CH 1 and turn.  SC in each ST across

Row 12: CH 1 and turn.  SCDEC over the 1^st and 2^nd STs, SC in the next 8 STs, SCDEC over the last 2 STs (10)

Row 13: CH 1 and turn.  SCDEC over the 1^st and 2^nd STs, SC in the next 6 STs, SCDEC over the last 2 STs (8)

Row 14: CH 1 and turn.  SCDEC over the 1^st and 2^nd STs, SC in the next 4 STs, SCDEC over the last 2 STs (6)

Row 15: CH 1 and turn.  SCINC in the first ST, SC in the next 4 STs, SCINC in the last (8)

Rows 16 – 17: CH 1 and turn.  SC in each ST across – Place a stitch marker in the 5^th ST of Row 17

Row 18: CH 1 and turn.  SC in the first 4 STs (4)

Row 19: CH 1 and turn.  (SCDEC) x 2 (2)

Row 20: CH 1 and turn.  SCDEC (1)
FO.

Row 22: With RS facing, reattach yarn in 5^th ST of Round 17.  SC in the same ST and the next 3 STs (4)

Row 23: CH 1 and turn.  (SCDEC) x 2 (2)

Row 24: CH 1 and turn.  SCDEC (1)

FO leaving a long tail to sew the piece onto the body.  Attach safety eyes into the mid-point of Row 19^th and Row 23.

Inside Wings (Make 2)

Row 1: Using Eisbar and 5.5mm hook, CH 2.  SC 2 in the 2^nd CH from the hook. (2)

Row 2: CH 1 and turn.  (SCINC) x 2. (4)

Rows 3 – 9: CH 1 and turn.  SC in the first ST and each ST across. (4)
FO.

Outside Wings (Make 2)

Row 1: Using Corvo and 5.5mm hook, CH 2.  SC 2 in the 2^nd CH from the hook. (2)

Row 2: CH 1 and turn.  (SCINC) x 2. (4)

Rows 3 – 9: CH 1 and turn.  SC in the first ST and each ST across .(4)

Round 10: Place the RS of a black wing and white wing piece together and working through both pieces, work 1 SC into the end of each row down the side of the wing.  Work 3 SCs in the end of Row 1 and SC up the other side of the wing. 

FO, leaving a long tail to sew onto the body.

Beak

Round 1: Using Brava Worsted Weight and 3.5mm hook, CH 7.  SCINC in the 2^nd CH from the hook, SC in the next 4 CHs, SC 3 in the last CH, working on the other side of the CH, SC in the next 5 CHs. (14)

Round 2: SC 5 in the first ST, SC in each of the next 6 STs, SC 5 in the next ST, SC in the last 6 STs (22)

Rounds 3 – 5:  SC in each ST around.

Round 6: SC in the first 2 STs, FO with invisible join (see special techniques), leaving a long tail for sewing piece to face.

Feet (Make 2)

Round 1: Using Brava Worsted yarn and 3.5mm hook, CH 9.  SCINC in the 2^nd CH from the hook, SC in the next 6 CHs, SC 3 in the last CH, working on the other side of the CH, SC in the next 7 CHs. (18)

Round 2: SC 5 in the first ST, SC in each of the next 8 STs, SC 5 in the next ST, SC in the last 8 STs (26)

Rounds 3 – 8:  SC in each ST around.

Round 9: SC in the first3 STs, SCDEC, SC in the next 11 STs, SCDEC, SC in the last 8 STs (24)

Round 10: SC in the first 3 STs, SCDEC, SC in the next 10 STs, SCDEC, SC in the last 7 STs (22)

Round 11: SC in the first 2 STs, SCDEC, SC in the next 9 STs, SCDEC, SC in the last 7 STs (20)

Round 12: SC in the first 2 STs, SCDEC, SC in the next 8 STs, SCDEC, SC in the last 6 STs (18) – Start adding stuffing, adding more after each completed round.  Stuff lightly.

Round 13: SC in the first ST, SCDEC, SC in the next 7 STs, SCDEC, SC in the last 6 STs (16)

Round 14: SC in the first ST, SCDEC, SC in the next 6 STs, SCDEC, SC in the last 5 STs (14)

Round 15: (SCDEC) x 2, SC in the next 3 STs, (SCDEC) x 2, SC in the last 3 STs (10)

Round 16: (SCDEC) x 5 (5)

FO leaving a long tail.  Thread tail onto tapestry needle and weave through FLO of Round 16 and cinch to close.  Do not fasten off.  Tail will be used to sew feet onto body in assembly stage.

Assembly

• Use yarn tail to sew  the tummy & face patch onto the body.  When placing the tummy patch onto the body, find a spot in the fabric where the posts on the backs of the eyes can be inserted into stitch holes in the fabric to get it as flat as possible.
  
  
• Use yarn tails to sew wings onto either side of the body, just below the indent for the neck.  
  
  
• Stuff the beak lightly and use yarn tail to sew the beak onto face, just below the eyes.  
  
  
• Use yarn tails left on the feet to secure the feet to the bottom of the body so the fronts of the feet (the widest part) poke out front of the body.

That’s it! I hope you had so much fun making your own penguin using my amigurumi penguin crochet pattern. I hope you’ll share pictures/videos of your little amigurumi penguins on social media – I’d love to see them! Make sure to tag me @theloopylamb or use #theloopylamb so I can see the little guys you create. Enjoy your cute new friend!

Ready to Make Another Fur Yarn Amigurumi? Check these out!

• Crochet Snowman Ornament
  
  
• Cat Crochet Christmas Tree Ornament
  
  
• My Baby Cuddle Owl Lovey
  
  
• Flikka Flamingo
  
  

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