This week I’m sharing my Crochet Spider Mug Rug – The Spooky Spider Mug Rug. This crochet mug rug pattern features the image of a cute spider and there are no ends to weave in at the end.
I have been pumping out Halloween crochet patterns non-stop lately. I have a series of Halloween crochet mug rugs and coasters for you over the next few weeks to help you get into the spirit of the season.
*This post may contain affiliate links, which means that I may earn a small commission from qualifying purchases made through these links at no extra cost to you. All opinions are my own.*
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For a small fee, you can get an ad-free PDF version of this pattern which includes the written instructions and a large colourwork chart. Find it in my Ravelry and Etsy shops and enjoy a seamless crocheting experience while supporting my work.
Tapestry Crochet Technique
To create the image of the spider on your Spooky Spider crochet mug rug, we’re going to use a technique called tapestry crochet. This technique utilizes a colourwork chart to illustrate the spider images and tell you which stitch should be which colour.
How to Read the Chart
Right-handed crocheters will need to read the tapestry chart from right to left for each row. Left-handed crocheters will need to read the chart from left to right for each row.
Each square in the chart represents one stitch in your project. The entire mug rug is done in single crochet stitches, so no fancy stitches are required to create this easy pattern.
If you’d prefer to have the colour changes written out for you in words, the ad-free PDF version of the pattern includes both the colour chart and the full written version of the pattern. Ad-free PDF versions of this crochet halloween coaster pattern are available in both my Ravelry and Etsy shops.
Are Both Sides of These Halloween Mug Rugs the Same?
No. With tapestry crochet projects, there are very clear right sides and wrong sides of the fabric. The right side will face you for the whole project and show the entire image clearly.
The wrong side will show the image though, it will be less clear and you may see signs of your color changes on the back.
If you don’t like that the back of the coaster isn’t as pretty, you can use some felt or fabric to line the back. I never do that because the wrong side is against the table most of the time so I never see it
Other Things To Know
Gauge isn’t critical for this crochet project, but keep in mind that not matching gauge will affect the size of your project and how much yarn that you will use. Yarn yardage given for this project is approximate and based on the gauge given.
If you find that the yarn that you’re carrying behind your stitches showing through, you may want to try going down a hook size or two or adjusting your tension so that any peek-throughs are minimal.
Other Crochet Halloween Mug Rugs & Coaster Patterns:
If you’d like to make a set of crochet Halloween coasters/mug rugs, I have some other mug rug patterns available (with more being added each week this month). They are all the same size and utilize the same tapestry techniques:
- The Ghoster Coaster – free pattern
- Halloween Pumpkin Crochet Coaster – premium pattern, available HERE in my Ravelry shop and HERE in my Etsy shop.
- Crochet Witch Hat Mug Rug – free pattern
- Boo! Crochet Halloween Mug Rug – free pattern
Disclaimer:
Feel free to sell the item created by this pattern but please provide pattern credit back to me when posting online, and please provide a link to my blog: https://theloopylamb.com. Please do not resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern in any printed or digital form, or claim this pattern as your own original design. Please do not use my photos when selling your finished items.
Skill Level:
- Easy
Terminology:
- U.S. Terminology
Supplies:
- E / 3.5 mm Crochet Hook
- We Crochet Dishie (100% Cotton Yarn, Worsted Weight (4), 190yds/174m, 100g/3.5oz), 1 Ball each of the following colors:
- Color A: White (approx. 38 yds/35 m (0.71 oz/20g))
- Color B: Black (approx. 23 yds/21 m (0.42 oz/12g))
- Scissors
- Tapestry Needle
If you’re planning on buying the materials for this project, please consider doing so through this affiliate link. It helps to support the blog at zero cost to you and allows me to continue to bring you great free crochet patterns like this one.
Abbreviations:
(click the underlined abbreviations in this list to view a photo and video tutorial for that stitch/technique)
- BLO = Back Loop Only
- CH = Chain
- FO = Finish Off
- SC = Single Crochet
- SL ST = Slip Stitch
- ST = Stitch
- YO = Yarn Over
Finished Size:
- 5.5” tall by 5.5” wide not including fringe
Gauge:
- 23 sts x 16 rows = 4 inches
NOTES:
- Gauge is not vital to the pattern but it may affect the size of your project and the amount of yarn required
- This pattern is worked from the bottom of the coaster to the top.
- A 3.5mm crochet hook is the recommended for this pattern but I suggest using whatever hook size needed to create a tight, closed fabric free of holes, or whatever hook size needed to match the given gauge.
- If you find that you have holes in your fabric or the yarn you’re carrying is showing through using the recommended hook size, try going down a hook size until you create a tight fabric with no holes in it and your other color(s) isn’t showing through.
- If you find that you have holes in your fabric or the yarn you’re carrying is showing through using the recommended hook size, try going down a hook size until you create a tight fabric with no holes in it and your other color(s) isn’t showing through.
- Reading the written color changes, the number next to the color in brackets indicates how many stitches in that color to work.
- For example, (Black) x 5, (White) x 1 means you’ll work 5 stitches in Black and then 1 stitch in White.
- For example, (Black) x 5, (White) x 1 means you’ll work 5 stitches in Black and then 1 stitch in White.
- Reading the Colorwork Chart: Read the chart starting in the bottom right-hand corner of the chart (for right-handed people) and start in the bottom left-hand corner of the chart for left-handed people.
- Each box in the color chart = 1 SC stitch. Work all stitches in the BLO. Each new round starts in the first box on the right-hand side of the chart for right-handed people and on the left-hand side of the chart for left-handed people and finishes in the last box of that round on the opposite side.
- Each box in the color chart = 1 SC stitch. Work all stitches in the BLO. Each new round starts in the first box on the right-hand side of the chart for right-handed people and on the left-hand side of the chart for left-handed people and finishes in the last box of that round on the opposite side.
- Color changes are done using the last YO of the last stitch before the color change is indicated. Find a color change tutorial here.
- Carry unused yarn colors and crochet over them as you work.
- This entire project is worked in rows worked in the BLO (back loops only).
- When reattaching your yarn at the start of a Row, attach your SL ST under both loops of the first ST or use a standing SC/SC Join stitch, worked under both loops to replace the SL ST join and the first SC stitch of the Row. Find an SC Join Tutorial on my blog here.
- When starting each row, leave a tail a few inches long of both main colours worked in that row hanging on the edge of your work so you will have fringe on both sides.
- Each row ends by fastening off both colours, leaving a yarn tail of a few inches to create your fringe (you’ll trim it up at the end).
- The right side/front side of the project is always facing you. Do not turn your work.
- Start Rows 2-22 by reattaching the main color yarn to the first ST of the previous Row and carrying the yarn inside your stitches.
Prefer an ad-free experience? Purchase a printable, ad-free PDF version of this pattern which includes the written version and the colourwork chart in my Ravelry and Etsy shops.
Crochet Spider Mug Rug – Free Pattern – Spooky Spider Mug Rug
Using White, CH 32.
FO.
Fringe:
Holding a few strands of the fringe together at a time, on one side, tie an overhand knot to create tassels along the side of your work and secure the yarn ends.
Once all the “tassels” are created, trim the fringe so it’s all the same length. Steam block, if desired.
Disclaimer:
Feel free to sell the item created by this pattern but please provide pattern credit back to me when posting online, and please provide a link to my blog: https://theloopylamb.com. Please do not resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern in any printed or digital form, or claim this pattern as your own original design. Please do not use my photos when selling your finished items.
Other Free Crochet Coaster and Mug Rug Patterns available on my site:
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