Easy Frog Crochet Glasses Holder Free Pattern

Keeping track of your eyeglasses can be a daily challenge, but with my adorable frog crochet glasses holder pattern, you can create a fun and functional solution that keeps your glasses safe and always within reach. This charming crochet project not only protects your eyewear but also adds a playful, handmade touch to your home decor.

This free crochet glasses holder pattern is beginner-friendly, using only basic crochet stitches and simple shaping techniques. Designed to look like a frog with its mouth open and tongue hanging out, this quirky glasses holder stores your eyewear securely inside its mouth—making it a unique and practical addition to your desk, nightstand, or gift list.

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Why Crochet a Glasses Holder?

A crochet glasses holder is a fun and functional alternative to traditional cases, combining practicality with creativity. This project is perfect for using up yarn scraps and makes a thoughtful, handmade gift. If you’re making one for kids, adding a playful and whimsical design—like this adorable frog—turns it into a fun accessory they’ll love using

Pattern Overview

This beginner-friendly crochet pattern uses simple stitches and easy construction techniques. You’ll start with a sturdy base, then crochet the holder’s body before adding the frog’s playful eyes and floppy tongue.

This is a super quick project—I finished my eyeglasses holder in about two hours! Whether you’re making it as a fun gift or a cute desk companion, you’ll love how fast and enjoyable it is to create.

What Yarn to Use for This Crochet Glasses Holder Pattern

When choosing yarn for your crochet glasses holder, you’ll want something with good structure and stability. A sturdy yarn means you won’t have to crochet too tightly, and it helps the holder keep its shape so the walls don’t turn floppy. 

For my frog glasses holder, I used Bernat Maker Minis from Yarnspirations. This yarn works perfectly because of its tube-like construction, which gives it both strength and flexibility.

Yarn Substitute Ideas

If you’re looking for a substitute, here are a few other great yarn options that offer similar structure and durability:

•    Bernat Maker,
  
  
•    Bernat Maker Home Dec,
  
  
•    Juniper Moon Farm Bud,
  
  
•    Katia Homemade
  
  
•    Brava Bulky
  
  
•    Easy Peasy Woobles Yarn

This isn’t an exhaustive list, but it should give you a great starting point when choosing the right yarn for your project!

Supplies:

• G+ / 4.5 mm Crochet Hook – I used my favorite ergonomic hooks found here
  
  
• I / 5.5 mm Crochet Hook
  
  
• Bernat Maker Minis (75% Cotton, 25% Nylon, Bulky (5), 61yds/56m, 50g/1.75oz), 1 skein each of:
  • Color A: Green (approx. 29yds/27m, 35g/1.23oz) 
    
    
  • Color B: White (approx. 4yds/4m / 5g/0.02oz) 
    
    
  • Color C: Pink (approx. 4yds/4m / 5g/0.02oz)
    
    
  • See Notes for Suggested Yarn Substitutions
    
    
• 20mm Safety Eyes – I used Neon Green Safety Eyes from Chateau Bornais Crochet
  
  
• Stuffing – Poly-fil is my favorite stuffing and it is available on Amazon and from Michaels Crafts Stores
  
  
• Scissors
  
  
• Tapestry Needle
  
  
• Stitch Markers 
  
  

Abbreviations:

• BLO = Back Loop Only
  
  
• CH(s) = Chain(s)
  
  
• DC = Double Crochet
  
  
• FLO = Front Loop Only
  
  
• FO = Finish Off
  
  
• HDC = Half Double Crochet
  
  
• MC = Magic Circle / Magic Ring
  
  
• RSSCC = Reverse Slip Stitch Color Change
  
  
• SC = Single Crochet 
  
  
• SCDEC = Single Crochet Decrease
  
  
• SCINC = Single Crochet Increase / 2 Single Crochet Stitches in the Same Stitch
  
  
• SK = Skip
  
  
• SL ST = Slip Stitch
  
  
• ST(s) = Stitch(es)

Special Stitches & Techniques:  

• Invisible Finish/Join: FO leaving a long tail. Thread the tail onto a tapestry needle.  Place the tapestry needle through the top of the 2^nd ST from front to back and pull through.  Place tip of needle into top of the last ST of the round, under the back loop of the stitch, and pull through to the back of the work.  Weave in the end. Prefer a visual? Check out my invisible finish tutorial here. 
  
  
• Reverse Slip Stitch Color Change (RSSCC): Remove loop in current color from your hook and insert the hook from the back of the fabric through to the front of the fabric through the first stitch of the Round. Place the loop of the current color back on the hook and pull it through the stitch to the back of the fabric. Yarn over (YO) with the new color and pull through the loop on your hook. YO and chain 1 to secure.
  
  
• Single Crochet (SC) Join: With a slip knot already on the hook, insert the hook into the designated stitch. YO and pull up a loop.  YO and pull through both loops on the hook. Counts as a stitch. Prefer a visual? Check out my single crochet join tutorial here 
  
• Yarn Under Single Crochet: Insert hook into indicated stitch, yarn under hook and pull up a loop (2 loops on your hook), yarn over hook and pull through both loops on your hook. Prefer a visual?  Check out my yarn under single crochet tutorial here.  

NOTES:            

• Yarn Substitution Suggestions: Bernat Maker, Bernat Maker Home Dec, Juniper Moon Farm Bud, Katia Homemade, Brava Bulky, Easy Peasy Woobles Yarn. This is not an exhaustive list, just a few ideas to get you started.
  
  
• Gauge is not vital to the project but it may affect the amount of yarn needed for the project and the size of your finished glasses holder
  
  
• Maintain a consistent tension throughout the project to ensure that pieces fit together as expected.
  
  
• 4.5mm hook and 5.5 mm hook are recommended for this pattern but I suggest using whatever hook size needed to create a tight, closed fabric free of holes, or whatever hook size needed to match the given gauge.
  
  
  • If you find that you have holes in your fabric using the recommended hook size, try going down a hook size until you create a tight fabric with no holes in it. This is particularly important for creating the Eyes so that no stuffing is showing through.
    
    
• Reading the Pattern: Instructions in brackets: I.e.: [SC, SCINC] x 6, this means you’ll work 1 SC stitch in the first stitch and then SCINC in the next stitch and you’ll repeat that pattern a total of 6 times.
  
  
  • Numbers indicated in () at the end of a Round/Row indicate the number of stitches you should have at the end of the Round/Row. I recommend counting your stitches at the end of each Round/Row before moving on to the next.
    
    
  • Where SC followed by a number (i.e. SC 14), you’ll work 1 SC stitch in the next 14 stitches or chains, unless the pattern specifies to work those stitches into the same stitch or chain.
    
    
• The pieces in this pattern are worked in continuous Rounds (unless stated otherwise).  Do not join at the end of the Round, unless indicated.  A stitch marker is used to keep track of the beginning of the Round. 
  
  
• This project can be worked in either standard single crochet stitch or yarn under single crochet stitch. I have used the yarn under single crochet stitch in my sample to make my fabric tighter. Use whichever stitch you’re most comfortable with using.
  
  
• Magic Circle Substitution: If you struggle with the MC or your yarn breaks when you try to do a MC with it, use a CH 2 and work all Round 1 stitches into the 2^nd chain from the hook.
  
  
• To get a cleaner SCDEC when crocheting the Eyes, work your SCDEC under the front loops only of each stitch rather than under both loops.  This is often referred to as an invisible decrease. Click here for my invisible decrease tutorial for more. 
  
  
• Color changes are done using the last yarn over of the last stitch before the color change is indicated (except where RSSCC is noted).

Want to print out this pattern? Grab a premium, ad-free PDF printer friendly version of this pattern in my Etsy and Ravelry stores.

Eye Glasses Holder
 

With larger hook and Color A, CH 13.

Round 1: SCINC in the 2^nd CH from the hook, SC 10, work 3 SC in the last CH. Working on the other side of the chain, SC 11. (26)

Need help working on both sides of a chain? Check out this tutorial.

Round 2: [SCINC] x 2, SC 10, [SCINC] x 3, SC 10, SCINC. (32)

Round 3: [SC, SCINC] x 2, SC 10, [SCINC, SC] x 2, SCINC, SC 12, SCINC. (38)

Round 4: [SC 2, SCINC] x 2, SC 11, [SCINC, SC 2] x 2, SCINC, SC 13, SCINC. (44)

Round 5: [SC 3, SCINC] x 2, SC 12, [SCINC, SC 3] x 2, SCINC, SC 14, SCINC. (50)

Round 6: SC 2, SCINC, SC 4, SCINC, SC 14, SCINC, SC 2, SCINC, SC 4, SCINC, SC 18, SCINC. (56)

Round 7: [SC 5, SCINC] x 2, SC 13, [SCINC, SC 5] x 2, SCINC, SC 17, SCINC. (62)

Round 8: SC 3, SCINC, SC 6, SCINC, SC 16, SCINC, SC 3, SCINC, SC 6, SCINC, SC 22, SCINC. (68)

Round 9: Loosely SL ST in each ST across. FO with invisible join (See Special Stitches & Techniques). Do not move stitch marker. Keep it in place so you can find the last ST to work into at the end of the next Round. (68)

Round 10: Turn your work, SC Join (See Special Stitches & Techniques) to the last ST of Round 9. SC in each remaining ST around. After completing this Round, move stitch marker up to mark the first ST of the Round again. (68)

Gauge Check: Piece should measure approx. 6.25” across the widest point at this stage (measure from one end of the oval to the other).
 

Rounds 11 – 12: SC around.

 FO using the invisible join. Weave in ends.   

Eyes (Make Two)

Round 1: With smaller hook and Color B, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC. Pull MC closed, leaving a small gap in the center to fit a safety eye post through. Do not secure the tail yet. (6)

Round 2: [SCINC] x 6. (12)

Round 3: [SC, SCINC] x 6. RSSCC (See Special Stitches & Techniques) to Color A. (18)

Round 4: SL ST around. (18)

Round 5: BLO SC around. (18)

Place safety eye through the center of MC from Round 1 and secure in place.  Secure MC/weave in tail. 

Round 6: [SC, SCDEC] x 6. (12) – Add stuffing. Stuff firmly.

Round 7: [SCDEC] x 6. (6)

FO leaving a long tail for sewing.   Thread the yarn tail onto the tapestry needle and weave the yarn tail through the FLO of the last Round and cinch to close.  Insert the tapestry needle through the center of the last round and out through the bottom of the Eye.  Use the yarn tail to sew each Eye to one of the long sides of the Eye Glasses Holder.   Weave in ends. 

Tongue

Using Color C & larger hook, CH 12.

Row 1: HDC in the 2^nd CH from the hook, HDC 6, DC 3, work 5 DC in the last CH, working on the other side of the chain, DC 3, HDC 7. Join the last ST to the first ST with a SL ST. (25)

 FO leaving a long tail for sewing.  Thread the yarn tail onto a tapestry needle and sew the Tongue to the bottom-center of the wall opposite the Eyes / the bottom of the head.  You’ll have to bend the wide end of the tongue over the side of the Eye Glasses Holder and secure near the bend in the fabric with a couple of stitches.  Leave the remainder of the tongue flopped over the edge. Weave in ends. (see image below for guidance)

Tip: If you find that the base of your Eye Glasses Holder will not sit flat when you are done, I recommend steam blocking the base/bottom of the Eye Glasses Holder and placing something flat and heavy on the base while it dries.

That’s it! I hope you enjoyed this crochet glasses holder pattern!

I’d love to see your finished glasses holder! If you share your projects on social media, please tag me @theloopylamb and/or use the hashtag #theloopylamb so I can see your glasses holder projects and share them as well.

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