Amigurumi Brontosaurus Free Crochet Dinosaur Pattern

Purchase an inexpensive ad-free PDF version of this pattern in my Ravelry and Etsy shops, which includes instructions to make a giant brontosaurus with plush yarns and photo tutorial support as well.

When I asked my little guys what was the coolest thing that you could have on. your backpack, they both said dinosaur.  My son is a huge dinosaur lover and my daughter loves a bunch of different prehistoric creatures so I set about figuring out how to crochet a mini cute dinosaur, that could fit on a child’s backpack. 

This free crochet dinosaur pattern makes an adorable amigurumi brontosaurus that clips to your child’s backpack, though it can just be a small child’s toy if you omit the caribiner.  

Get your child involved in the fun of making your Backpack Bronto which makes it extra special for them by having them pick out colors, safety eyes and naming their cuddly companion.  Don’t be surprised if they come home with requests from friends for you to make them their own crochet dinosaur.

What Yarn Was Used In This Crochet Stuffed Dinosaur Free Pattern?

The free crochet dinosaur pattern for the Backpack Bronto is made using worsted weight yarn. I used Brava Worsted Weight yarn from WeCrochet and this project takes such a small amount of yarn that you can use a single Brava Mini to make one.

The PDF version of the pattern includes the materials list and instructions to turn your Backpack Bronto into a Giant Bronto which is made with blanket yarn.

I’ve included this so kids can have a cuddle-sized friend at home and take a mini one on-the-go so no matter where they are, they have a friend with them.

Techniques Used In This Amigurumi Dinosaur Pattern

Basic amigurumi techniques are utilized in this free crochet dinosaur pattern like invisible decrease, ultimate finish, magic circle and invisible join/finish. You can find tutorials for each of these techniques here on my blog by clicking on each technique name above.

I also have YouTube tutorials for each of those techniques so if you’re unsure about any of them, there is also the video support as well. You can find those each embedded on the blog post for the techique so you don’t even have to leave the site to find the help you may need.

Other than those basic amigurumi techniques, you’ll need to know how to do the single crochet stitch and how to increase and decrease single crochet stitches. Check out this tutorial on how to do the single crochet stitch.

Disclaimer:

Feel free to sell the item created by this free crochet pattern but please provide pattern credit back to me when posting online, and please provide a link to my blog: https://theloopylamb.com.  Please do not resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern in any printed or digital form, or claim this pattern as your own original design.  Please do not use my photos when selling your finished items.   

Skill Level:

• Easy

Terminology:

• U.S. Terminology

Supplies for Backpack Bronto:

• 3.5 mm Clover Amour Crochet Hook
  
  
• WeCrochet Brava Worsted (100% Premium Acrylic yarn, Worsted Weight (4), 218 yds/199 m, 100g/3.53 oz)
  • 1 ball in Avocado (approx. 33 yds/30 m (15 g/ 0.5 oz))
    
    
• 2 – 9 mm Safety Eyes
  
  
• 38mm Caribiner Clip
  
  
• Polyester Stuffing
  
  
• Clover Chibi Bent Tip Tapestry Needle / Yarn Needle
  
  
• Clover Mini Patchwork Scissors
  
  
• Multiple Clover Locking Stitch Markers

Abbreviations:
(click links to view a tutorial with step-by-step instructions for that stitch/technique)

• CH = Chain
  
  
• FLO = Front Loops Only
  
  
• FO = Finish Off
  
  
• MC = Magic Circle / Magic Ring
  
  
• PM = Place Marker
  
  
• SC = Single Crochet
  
  
• SCDEC = Single Crochet Decrease
  
  
• SCINC = Single Crochet Increase / 2 SC stitches worked into the same stitch
  
  
• SK = Skip
  
  
• SL ST = Slip Stitch
  
  
• ST = Stitch

Finished Size:

• Backpack Bronto:  Approximately 5” tall (not including caribiner clip)

Special Techniques:

• Invisible Join: FO leaving a tail that is at least 5 – 6 inches in length.  Thread the tail onto a tapestry needle.  Place the tapestry needle through the top of the 2^nd ST from front to back and pull through.  Place tip of needle into top of the last ST of the round, under the back loop of the stitch, and pull through to the back of the work.  Weave in the end.  Check out my invisible join tutorial.
  
  
• Yarn Under Single Crochet: Insert hook into indicated stitch, yarn under hook and pull up a loop (2 loops on your hook), yarn over hook and pull through both loops on your hook. Find a tutorial here: https://theloopylamb.com/how-to-yarn-under-single-crochet-for-amigurumi-tutorial/
  
  
• SC Join: With a slip knot already on the hook, insert the hook into the designated stitch. YO and pull up a loop.  YO and pull through both loops on the hook. Counts as a stitch and is included in stitch count.  Find a tutorial here: https://theloopylamb.com/how-to-do-the-single-crochet-join-for-cleaner-yarn-joins/

Notes:

• Gauge is not vital to this project however, not matching gauge will affect the size of your finished toy, the amount of yarn used and you may potentially need to adjust the size or your safety eyes.   
  
  
• A 3.5mm crochet hook is recommended for this amigurumi dinosaur pattern but I suggest using whatever hook size needed to create a tight, closed fabric free of holes, or whatever hook size needed to match the given gauge.
  
  
  • If you find that you have holes in your fabric using the recommended hook size, try going down a hook size until you create a tight fabric with no holes in it and no stuffing is showing through.
    
    
• Reading the Pattern: Instructions in brackets: I.e.: (SC, SCINC) x 6, this means you’ll work 1 SC stitch in the first stitch (st) and then SCINC in the next st and you’ll repeat that pattern a total of 6 times.
  
  
  • Numbers indicated in () at the end of a Round/Row indicate the number of stitches you should have at the end of the Round/Row. I recommend counting your stitches at the end of each Round/Row before moving on to the next.
  
  
  
  • Where SC followed by a number (i.e. SC 14), you’ll work 1 SC stitch in the next 14 stitches or chains, unless the pattern specifies to work those stitches into the same stitch or chain.
    
    
• This pattern is worked in continuous Rounds (unless stated otherwise).  Do not join at the end of the Round, unless indicated.  A stitch marker is used to keep track of the beginning of the Round.
  
  
• For a cleaner SCDEC, do your SCDEC under the front loops only of each stitch rather than under both loops.  This is often referred to as an invisible decrease. Check out my invisible decrease tutorial.
  
  
• Both dinosaurs are created using the same pattern but utilizing different materials.  Follow the instructions the same for both dinosaurs but utilize the appropriate materials listed for the size you’d like to make.
  
  
• Stitch location is vital for this pattern in order for the head to come out facing the correct direction.
  
  
• This pattern can be worked in either regular single crochet or the yarn under single crochet. My sample was done using regular single crochet. Keep in mind that if you use the yarn under single crochet, it may affect the amount of yarn used and the size of your toy.
  
  
• Place scrap pieces of yarn or stitch markers into the stitches for the safety eyes until you have crocheted past that point far enough to insert the safety eyes with the backs on them without them getting in the way of your crocheting.
  
  
• In Round 1 of the Neck/Head, I have given you to options to join your yarn.  Pick one option and follow the instructions for that join and ignore the other.  They both give the same result.
  
  
  
  

Purchase an inexpensive ad-free PDF version of this pattern in my Ravelry and Etsy shops, which includes instructions to make a giant brontosaurus, more tips & photo tutorial support as well.

Dinosaur’s Body:

Round 1: Make a MC and SC 6 into the MC. (6)

Round 2: (SCINC) x 6. (12)


Round 3: (SCINC, SC) x 6. (18)


Round 4: SC, (SCINC, SC 2) x 5, SCINC, SC. (24)


Gauge Check: Piece should measure 1.5” across at the end of Round

Round 5: SC around. (24)


Round 6: SC, CH 7, SK 2, SC 21. (22 sts, 7 CHs) – PM in 2^nd skipped ST of Round 6

Need Help With Round 6? The PDF version of this pattern includes photo support for this section of the pattern. Find it here in my Ravelry and Etsy shops

Round 7: SC in 1^ST ST and the next 3 CHs, SCINC, SC in each remaining ST and CH around. (30)

Rounds 8 – 11 : SC around. (30)


Round 12: (SC 3, SCDEC) x 6. (24)

Round 13: SC, (SCDEC, SC 2) x 5, SCDEC, SC. (18) – Start adding stuffing, continuing to add stuffing as you work.

Round 14: (SCDEC, SC) x 6. (12)

Round 15: (SCDEC) x 6. (6)

FO leaving a long tail.  Weave tail through FLO of last round and cinch hole closed.  Weave in ends.

Neck & Head:

Round 1: Attach yarn using a SL ST or SC Join (See Special Stitches and Techniques) to the marked stitch that we attached a stitch marker to in Round 6 of the Body (See image 1 below). 

If you joined with a SL ST, SC in the same ST as the join, SC 10 evenly around the opening in the body. (11) (see image 2 below for help with stitch placement)

If you joined with a SC Join, skip the first stitch, SC 10 evenly around the opening in the body

Need Help With Round 1 of the Head/Neck? The PDF version of this pattern includes photo support for this section of the pattern. Find it here in my Ravelry and Etsy shops

Round 2: SC, SCDEC, SC 2, SCINC, SC 2, SCDEC, SC. (10) – Start stuffing, continuing to add stuffing as you work. Stuff firmly.


Rounds 3 – 8: SC around. (10)


Round 9: SC 5, SCINC, SC, SCINC, SC 2. (12)

Round 10: SC 6, (SCINC) x 5, SC. (17)


Round 11: SC 6, (SCINC, SC 2) x 3, SCINC, SC. (21)


Round 12: SC 9, SCINC, (SC 3, SCINC) X 2, SC 3  (24)


Rounds 13 – 17: SC around. (24)

Round 18: SC, (SCDEC, SC 2) x 5, SCDEC, SC. (18) – with dinosaur’s head facing away from you, place left safety eye in Round 16 and the right eye in Round 15, with 8 sts between them.


Round 19: (SC, SCDEC) x 6. (12)


Round 20: (SCDEC) x 6. (6)

FO leaving a long yarn tail.  Weave the yarn tail through the FLO of the last round and pull the yarn tail to cinch the hole closed. Weave in ends.

Legs (Make 4):

Round 1: Make a MC and SC 6 into the MC. (6)


Round 2: (SCINC) x 6. (12)


Rounds 3 – 5: SC around. (12)


FO with invisible join (see special techniques), leaving a long tail.  Stuff legs and sew all four legs to bottom of dinosaur.

Tail:

Round 1: Make a MC and SC 6 into the MC. (6)


Round 2: SC around. (6)


Round 3: SCINC, SC 5. (7)


Round 4: SC around. (7)

Round 5: SC 5, SCINC, SC. (8)


Round 6: SC around. (8)


Round 7: SC 3, SCINC, SC 4. (9) – Start stuffing, continuing to add stuffing every few rounds.


Round 8: SC 6, SCINC, SC 2. (10)

Round 9: SC around. (10)


Round 10: SCINC, SC 9. (11)


Rounds 11 – 12: SC around. (11)


FO leaving a long tail to sew onto the body.  Stuff tail with stuffing and sew tail onto the body, using photo as reference.

Assembly:

Insert caribiner through the top of the back of your dinosaur.

That’s it! I hope that you enjoyed this dino pattern. I can’t wait to see your fun crochet dinosaur projects!  When sharing your crochet projects on social media, please tag me @theloopylamb or use #theloopylamb in your posts so that I can see your posts and share them as well.