Learn how to make a mini octopus with my Octo Ollie no-sew free crochet pattern! This pattern works up in under 20 minutes and uses basic stitches so it’s a great project for selling at craft fairs and for that almost instant gratification feeling.
This easy mini octopus crochet pattern includes a step-by-step video tutorial so whether you need a little extra help or can’t read crochet patterns, you’ll be on your way to having an army of little octopi in no time.
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Prefer an ad-free experience or want to print this pattern out? Grab a printable ad-free PDF version of this pattern in my Ravelry and Etsy shop.
What is the Best Yarn To Use to Make my Amigurumi Octopus?
I used Ricorumi Nilli Nilli Yarn for this mini octopus pattern because plush toys are all the rage right now but Nilli Nilli is a thinner yarn than your standard plush yarn so it enables you to make smaller toys while getting that soft, plush finish we love.
However, if you don’t have access to Ricorumi Nilli Nilli, you can use another yarn you prefer or have on hand. There are some things to keep in mind when making substitutions which I’ll talk about next.
Substituting Yarns For Crochet Projects
When substituting yarn for this crochet pattern, keep in mind:
- If you’re changing the yarn weight, you’ll need to also change your crochet hook size and your safety eyes.
- Changing yarn weights will also change the size of the toy and how much yarn you will need.
- This project can be made with acrylic yarns or cotton yarn but the finish/feel of the toy will be different.
How Do I Change the Size to Make Bigger Crochet Octopus Toys?
Using a heavier yarn weight and larger crochet hook is a quick and easy way to make this toy bigger. The size of your finished octopus amigurumi when you use a bigger yarn/ hook combo will depend on your person tension, the weight of your yarn and the size of your crochet hook.
Octopus Key Chains
This little crocheted octopus toys are under 2″ tall and wide so they are the perfect size for turning your amigurumi projects into key chains. To turn them into a keychain, grab some keychain hardward (like this keychain hardware on Amazon) and attach them to the top of the head of the octopus.
Disclaimer
Feel free to sell the physical items created with this free crochet pattern but please provide pattern credit back to me when posting online, and please provide a link to my blog: https://theloopylamb.com. Please do not resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern in any printed or digital form, or claim this pattern as your own work, patterns or design. Please do not use my photos when selling your finished items. This pattern is for personal use only.
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Skill Level:
- Easy
Terminology:
- US Crochet Terms
Supplies:
- 3.25 mm (D) Crochet Hook – I used these ergonomic hooks from Furls Crochet
- Ricorumi Nilli Nilli (100% Polyester, DK (3) weight yarn, 71 yds/65 m, 25 g/0.88 oz), 1 skein in your color of preference. I used 014 – Light Blue and 013 – Blue in my samples (approx. 13 yds / 5 g)
- 6mm Black Safety Eyes
- Scissors
- Tapestry Needle / Yarn Needle
- Stitch Markers
- Scrap Piece of yarn
- Polyfil Stuffing
Abbreviations:
(click the links in this list to view a photo and video tutorial for that stitch/technique)
- BLO = Back Loop Only
- CH(s) = Chain(s)
- FLO = Front Loop Only
- FO = Finish Off
- MC = Magic Circle / Magic Ring
- SC = Single Crochet
- SCDEC = Single Crochet Decrease
- SCINC = Single Crochet Increase / 2 Single Crochet Stitches worked in the same Stitch
- SK = Skip
- SL ST = Slip Stitch
- ST(s) = Stitch(es)
Special Stitches & Techniques:
- Yarn Under Single Crochet: Insert hook into indicated stitch, yarn under hook and pull up a loop (2 loops on your hook), yarn over hook and pull through both loops on your hook.
Finished Size:
- This little guy is approx: 1.25 inches tall x 1.75” inches wide when crocheted to gauge.
Gauge:
- Rounds 1 – 3 = 1 inch across at the widest point.
NOTES:
- Gauge is not vital to this project however, not matching gauge will affect the size of your finished toy, the amount of yarn used and you may potentially need to adjust the size or your safety eyes.
- Instructions within the brackets () are to be repeated the number of times specified next to the brackets.
- A 3.25 mm hook is the recommended crochet hook size for this pattern but I suggest using whatever hook size needed to create a tight, closed fabric free of holes, or whatever hook size needed to match the given gauge.
- If you find that you have holes in your fabric using the recommended hook size, try going down a hook size until you create a tight fabric with no holes in it and no stuffing is showing through.
- If you find that you have holes in your fabric using the recommended hook size, try going down a hook size until you create a tight fabric with no holes in it and no stuffing is showing through.
- This is a no sew crochet pattern that is worked from the top of the toy to the bottom, starting with the top of the head and ending with the bottom of the toy.
- This pattern can be worked in either regular single crochet or the yarn under single crochet. My sample was done using regular single crochet. Keep in mind that if you use the yarn under single crochet, it may affect the amount of yarn used and the size of your toy.
- Reading the Pattern: Instructions in brackets: I.e.: (SC, SCINC) x 6, this means you’ll work 1 SC stitch in the first stitch and then SCINC in the next stitch and you’ll repeat that pattern a total of 6 times.
- Numbers indicated in () at the end of a Round/Row indicate the number of stitches you should have at the end of the Round/Row. I recommend counting your stitches at the end of each Round/Row before moving on to the next.
- Where SC followed by a number (i.e. SC 14), you’ll work 1 SC stitch in the next 14 stitches or chains, unless the pattern specifies to work those stitches into the same stitch or chain.
- This pattern is worked in continuous Rounds (unless stated otherwise). Do not join at the end of the Round, unless indicated. A stitch marker is used to keep track of the beginning of the Round.
- If your yarn is breaking or you struggle with making the MC, work a CH 2 and work the stitches in Round 1 in the 2nd CH from the hook.
- For a cleaner SCDEC, do your SCDEC under the front loops only of each stitch rather than under both loops (except when indicated to work your ST in a different location i.e. BLO). This is often referred to as an invisible decrease. Find my tutorial here: https://theloopylamb.com/how-to-do-an-invisible-decrease/
- Place scrap pieces of yarn or stitch markers into the stitches indicated for safety eye placement until you have crocheted past that point far enough to insert the safety eyes with the back on them without them getting in the way of your crocheting.
- You can adjust the legs on your octopus by creating a longer or shorter chain where CH 6 is indicated in Round 10 and working an SC ST in each CH back to the body of the toy.
Prefer an ad-free experience or want to print this pattern out? Grab a printable ad-free PDF version of this pattern in my Ravelry and Etsy shop.
How to Crochet a Mini Octopus No-Sew Amigurumi Video Tutorial
Crochet a Mini Octopus: Octo Ollie
Round 1: Make a MC and SC 6 into the MC. (6)
Round 2: (SCINC) x 6. (12)
Round 3: (SC, SCINC) x 6. (18)
Gauge Check: Piece should measure 1” across the widest section at this point.
Rounds 4 – 8: SC around. (18) – place safety eyes in Round 4 with 3 STs between them.
Other Great Amigurumi Patterns That are Part of My Growing Collection of Free Patterns
Round 9: (SC, SCDEC) x 6. (12) – Stuff toy.
Round 10: FLO SC in the first ST, CH 6, SC in 2nd CH from hook and each CH across (first tentacle completed). FLO SCDEC using the next 2 STs of Round 9, CH 6, SC in 2nd CH from hook and each CH across, *FLO SC in the next ST of Round 9, CH 6, SC in 2nd CH from hook and each CH across, FLO SCDEC using the next 2 STs of Round 9, CH 6, SC in 2nd CH from hook and each CH across, repeat from * across. Join last ST to first ST with a SL ST. (8 tentacles and 8 sts)
FO leaving a long tail.
Thread yarn tail onto a tapestry needle and bring the yarn tail to the inside/open side of the project.
Add any additional stuffing you’d like and then weave the yarn tail through the unworked BLOs from Round 9.
Pull tail to cinch closed.
FO and weave in ends.
Tip: If you’re having a tough time seeing the unworked back loops in Round 9 after finishing Round 10, just try your best to guess where they are when closing up your toy.
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What im trying to say is THANK YOU♥
you’re very welcome!
Oh my starssss, I love this!!!!! How do you dothings like this it looks so easy but it is pretty hard. I have only made a gost and it looks a little funny!!!!! 🙁 I am so thankful that people like you are able to do this for others it makes us so happy!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!1
I’ve made two “octo”pi so far, but each of mine has somehow tuned out with only seven tentacles, not entirely sure what I’m doing wrong however. Any idea what my issue may be?
Hi Robin,
My best guesses without seeing your work would be that you’re either skipping a stitch or missing a tentacle in the repeat.
I’ve triple checked the instructions and they are correct so here is that round written out fully so you see the instructions written out for each part of the repeat around the round. I hope it helps.
FLO SC in the first ST, CH 6, SC in 2nd CH from hook and each CH across (first tentacle completed).
FLO SCDEC using the next 2 STs of Round 9, CH 6, SC in 2nd CH from hook and each CH across (second tentacle completed),
FLO SC in the next ST of Round 9, CH 6, SC in 2nd CH from hook and each CH across (third tentacle completed),
FLO SCDEC using the next 2 STs of Round 9, CH 6, SC in 2nd CH from hook and each CH across, (fourth tentacle completed),
FLO SC in the next ST of Round 9, CH 6, SC in 2nd CH from hook and each CH across (fifth tentacle completed),
FLO SCDEC using the next 2 STs of Round 9, CH 6, SC in 2nd CH from hook and each CH across, (sixth tentacle completed),
FLO SC in the next ST of Round 9, CH 6, SC in 2nd CH from hook and each CH across (seventh tentacle completed),
FLO SCDEC using the next 2 STs of Round 9, CH 6, SC in 2nd CH from hook and each CH across, (eight tentacle completed),
Join last ST to first ST with a SL ST. (8 tentacles and 8 sts)
Thank you so much! It’s such a cute and easy pattern. I’m using embroidery floss and a size 7 steel crochect hook to make them. For a size reference, they’re as wide as a quarter. I’m going to be placing them in geocaches that I find because I think people will love finding them.
You’re welcome! That’s so cool! I bet people would love finding them. Happy crocheting ❤️