Free Crochet Dog Pattern – Henley the Hound

I am so so excited to share with you my free crochet dog pattern for Henley the Hound. Henley is a sweet and playful puppy that is just begging to be played with. Henley is a crochet dog that is sitting on his hind legs and is holding his paws up to ask for a treat or for someone to play with him.

This free crochet dog pattern is suitable for intermediate crocheters or adventurous beginners and makes a great gift.

I’ve included detailed instructions and photo tutorial support to help you through the assembly of your new cute dog best friend.

This free crochet dog pattern has been sponsored by Clover USA. All opinions are my own.

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*This post may contain affiliate links, which means that I may earn a small commission from qualifying purchases made through these links at no additional cost to you. All opinions are my own.*

Get an ad-free PDF version of this amigurumi dog pattern for a small fee in my Ravelry shop or Etsy shop.

I have always been a big dog lover and I have wanted to design a free crochet dog pattern for the blog but didn’t want it to be like a doll.  I was inspired by my adorable dachshund, Biscuit to create this adorable little crochet dog. It’s created using only basic stitches but the it’s unique design comes from it’s construction.

How this Project Is Created

Henley is designed to be able to stand up on his own.

The placement of the thighs, feet and tail provide some assistance for him to stand up which is further aided by the use of poly pellets in the base of Henley’s body. Poly pellets are plastic pellets that add weight to your project.

The poly pellets are placed in a nylon stocking to prevent them from falling out of the toy through the stitches. This is an optional step however, if you choose not to use them, it may make Henley a bit less stable/less able to stand up on his own.

Learn more about how to use poly pellets for amigurumi in my how to use poly pellets tutorial here.

​What You’ll Need To Make Your Stuffed Animal Dog

• You’ll need yarn in two different colors. I used a dark brown yarn for the dog’s ears and tail and a lighter shade of brown for the main color for the head and body – feel free to sub your favourite colors 
  
  
• Embroidery yarn is used to add a nose but feel free to substitute a safety nose of your preferred size if you don’t like embroidery.
  
  
• The tools I used in this project were generously supplied by Clover USA. I used their Clover Amour Crochet hooks, Chibi Bent Tip Tapestry Needle, Locking Stitch Markers and Patchwork Mini Scissors. 
  
  
• Locking stitch markers are an absolute necessity (in my opinion) when making amigurumi and these stitch markers never disappoint. 
  
  
• A bent tip tapestry needle is a game changer!  If you do amigurumi projects regularly, then I definitely recommend checking them out.

Other Free Amigurumi Crochet Patterns You’ll Love

• My Dolly Molly – with video tutorial
  
  
• Bruce the Goose
  
  
• Trevor Triceratops

Disclaimer:

Feel free to sell the finished item created by this free crochet pattern but please provide pattern credit back to me when posting online, and please provide a link to my blog: https://theloopylamb.com.  Please do not resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern in any printed or digital form, or claim this pattern as your own original design.  Please do not use my photos when selling your finished items.   

Skill Level:

• Intermediate level

Terminology:

• U.S. Terminology
  

Supplies:

• E / 3.5mm Crochet Hook – I used Clover Amour hooks for this design
  
  
• WeCrochet Brava Worsted Weight Yarn (100% Premium Acrylic, Worsted Weight (4), 100 g/3.5 oz, 218 yds/200m), 1 ball each of the following colours:
  • Colour A: Brindle (approx. 201 yds)
  • Colour B: Sienna (approx. 56 yds)
    
    
• 2 – 14 mm Safety Eyes (Black)
  
  
• Polyester Stuffing
  
  
• Nylon Stocking (or other way to contain Poly Pellets)
  
  
• Poly Pellets/Plastic Pellets (I used about 71g)
  
  
• Clover Chibi Bent Tip Tapestry Needle
  
  
• Scissors – I used Clover Patchwork Mini Scissors
  
  
• Clover Quick Locking Stitch Makers
  
  
• Sewing Pins (Optional but highly recommended)
  
  
• Black Embroidery Thread
  
  
  

If you’re planning on buying the materials for this project, please consider doing so through this affiliate link. It helps to support the blog at zero cost to you and allows me to continue to bring you great free crochet patterns like this one.

Abbreviations:

• CH = Chain
  
  
• FLO = Front Loop Only
  
  
• FO = Finish Off
  
  
• MC = Magic Circle / Magic Ring
  
  
• SC = Single Crochet
  
  
• SCDEC = Single Crochet Decrease
  
  
• SCINC = Single Crochet Increase / 2 Single Crochet Stitches in the Same Stitch
  
  
• SL ST = Slip Stitch
  
  
• ST = Stitch
  
  

Finished Size:

• Approximately 8.5” tall x 4.5” wide across the hips

Gauge:

• 9 sts x 11 rows = 2 inches
  
  

Notes:

• Gauge is not vital to the project as long as tension is maintained throughout the project and there are no holes where stuffing can be seen.  However, please note if you do not match gauge, it will affect the size of your project and therefore, potentially the amount of yarn required.
  
  
• This project is worked in continuous rounds.  Do not join at the end of every row (unless indicated).  Use a stitch marker to mark the first stitch of every round, moving it up at the start of each new round.
  
• For a cleaner SCDEC, do your SCDEC under the front loops only of the stitch rather than under both loops.  This is often referred to as an invisible decrease. Check out my invisible decrease tutorial.
  
• Work the SL STs in the arms loosely so that you are able to work into them when adding future rows.
  
• Henley is designed to be able to stand up on his own. The placement of the thighs, feet and tail provide some assistance for him to stand up which is further aided by the use of poly pellets in the base of Henley’s body. Poly pellets are plastic pellets that add weight to your project. The poly pellets are placed in a nylon stocking to prevent them from falling out of the toy through the stitches. This is an optional step however, if you choose not to use them, it may make Henley a bit less stable/less able to stand up on his own.
  
  

Get an ad-free PDF version of this pattern for a small fee in my Ravelry shop or Etsy shop.

Free Crochet Dog Pattern for Henley the Hound

Head

Round 1: Using Colour A, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC. (6)


Round 2: (SCINC) x 6. (12)


Round 3: (SC, SCINC) x 6. (18)


Round 4: SC, SCINC, (SC 2, SCINC) x 5, SC. (24)


Round 5: (SC 3, SCINC) x 6. (30)


Rounds 6  – 10: SC around. (30)


Round 11: (SCINC, SC 2) x 5, SCINC, SC 14. (36)


Round 12: (SCINC, SC 3) x 5, SCINC, SC 15. (42)


Round 13: SC 2, SCINC, (SC 4, SCINC) x 5, SC 14. (48) – Insert safety eyes in STS 10 and 25 of Row 13


Rounds 14  – 15:  SC around. (48)


Round 16: (SCINC, SC 5) x 5, SCINC, SC 17. (54)


Rounds 17 – 23:  SC around. (54)


Round 24:  SC 2, SCDEC, (SC 4, SCDEC) x 8, SC 2. (45)


Rounds 25 – 26: SC around. (45)


Round 27: SCDEC, (SC 3, SCDEC) x 8, SC 3. (36) – Start stuffing, adding a bit more stuffing after each round.  Stuff firmly.


Round 28: SC 2, SCDEC, (SC 4, SCDEC) x 5, SC 2. (30)


Round 29: (SC 3, SCDEC) x 6. (24)


Round 30: (SC 2, SCDEC) x 6. (18)


Round 31: (SC, SCDEC) x 6. (12)


Round 32: (SCDEC) x 6. (6)


FO and weave the tail through the FLO of the last round to close the hole. Weave in end.

Body

Round 1: Using Colour A, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC. (6)


Round 2: (SCINC) x 6. (12)


Round 3: (SC, SCINC) x 6. (18)


Round 4: SC, SCINC, (SC 2, SCINC) x 5, SC. (24)


Round 5: (SC 3, SCINC) x 6. (30)


Round 6: SC 2, SCINC, (SC 4, SCINC) x 5, SC 2. (36)


Round 7: (SC 5, SCINC) x 6. (42)


Rounds 8  – 26: SC around. (42)


Round 27: (SC 5, SCDEC) x 6. (36)


Round 28: SC around. (36) – If using Poly Pellets, add them to the nylon stocking. Secure the top with a knot (or your preferred method) and place it in the bottom of the body now.  Start stuffing, adding a bit more every couple of rounds. 

Make sure to stuff around the Poly Pellet pack.  Stuff firmly.


Round 29: SC 2, SCDEC, (SC 4, SCDEC) x 5, SC 2. (30)


Round 30: SC around. (30)


Round 31: (SC 3, SCDEC) x 6. (24)


Round 32: SC around. (24)


Round 33: SC, SCDEC, (SC 2, SCDEC) x 5, SC. (18)


Join last ST to first ST with a SL ST and FO leaving a long tail to sew the head onto the body. Sew body onto head. For a playful look, sew the head slightly off center/leaned to one side. 

Add stuffing to the body as you sew the head on and stuff firmly to help support the head.  Not enough stuffing may cause the head to droop.

Left Arm

Round 1: Using Colour A, make a MC and SC 8 into the MC. (8)


Round 2: (SCINC) x 2, SC 2, (SCINC) x 2, SC 2. (12)


Round 3:  SC around. (12)


Round 4: SCINC, SC 1, SCINC, SC 3, SCINC, SC 1, SCINC, SC 3 (16)


Rounds 5 – 8: SC around (16)


Rounds 9 – 12: In FLO, SL ST 8, working back under both loops, SC 8 (16) – Start stuffing, adding a bit more stuffing every couple of rounds.  Stuff firmly.


Rounds 13 – 18: SC around. (16)


Round 19: SC 7, (SCDEC) x 4, SC. (12)


Round 20: SC around. (12)


Round 21: SC 6, (SCDEC) x 3. (9)


Round 22: SC 5, (SCDEC) x 2. (7)


FO leaving a long tail that’s long enough to close the top of the arm and sew it onto the body. Use the tail to whip stitch the top of the arm closed.

Right Arm

Round 1: Using Colour A, make a MC and SC 8 into the MC. (8)


Round 2: (SCINC) x 2, SC 2, (SCINC) x 2, SC 2. (12)


Round 3:  SC around. (12)


Round 4: SCINC, SC, SCINC, SC 3, SCINC, SC, SCINC, SC 3. (16)


Rounds 5 – 8: SC around. (16)


Rounds 9 – 12: In FLO, SL ST 8, working back under both loops, SC 8 (16) – Start stuffing, adding a bit more stuffing every couple of rounds.  Stuff firmly.


Rounds 13 – 18: SC around. (16)


Round 19: (SCDEC) x 3, SC 8, SCDEC. (12)


Round 20: SC around. (12)


Round 21: (SCDEC) x 3, SC 6. (9)


Round 22: (SCDEC) x 2, SC 5. (7)

FO leaving a long tail that’s long enough to close the top of the arm and sew it onto the body. Use the tail to whip stitch the top of the arm closed. 

The ends of the arms are angled to fit flush with the sides of the body this is the part that will lay next to the body (see image below). 

In the image below, is the left arm and I’m pointing out the part of the arm that should be lain next to the body when sewing onto the dog.  Sew left arm onto the left side of the body and sew the right arm onto the right side of the body, angling the paws upwards towards the chin. 

Making one paw slightly lower than the other gives it a playful look.  Using sewing pins to pin the arms onto the body first will help you ensure your arms are in a place you are happy with and hold them in place while you’re sewing them on.

Ears (Make Two)

Round 1: Using Colour B, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC. (6)


Round 2: (SCINC) x 6. (12)


Round 3: (SC, SCINC) x 6. (18)


Round 4: (SC 2, SCINC) x 6. (24)


Round 5: (SC 3, SCINC) x 6. (30)


Rounds 6 – 8: SC around. (30)


Round 9: SCDEC, SC 13, SCDEC, SC 13. (28)

Round 10: SC around. (28)


Round 11: SCDEC, SC 12, SCDEC, SC 12. (26)


Round 12: SC around. (26)


Round 13: SCDEC, SC 11, SCDEC, SC 11. (24)


Round 14: SC around. (24)


Round 15: SCDEC, SC 10, SCDEC, SC 10. (22)


Round 16:  SC around. (22)


Round 17: (SCDEC) x 2, SC 7, (SCDEC) x 2, SC 7. (18)


Round 18: SC around. (18)


Round 19: (SCDEC) x 2, SC 5, (SCDEC) x 2, SC 5. (14)


Round 20: (SCDEC) x 2, SC 3, (SCDEC) x 2, SC 3. (10)


Join last ST to the first ST with a SL ST.

FO leaving a long tail that’s long enough to close the top of the ear and sew it onto the head. DO NOT STUFF.  Use the tail to whip stitch the top of the ear closed.

Sew an ear onto either side of the head, lining the tops of the ears to be in line with the center of the eyes.

Feet (Make Two)

Round 1: Using Colour A, make a MC and SC 8 into the MC. (8)


Round 2: (SCINC) x 2, SC 2, (SCINC) x 2, SC 2. (12)


Round 3:  SC around. (12)


Round 4: SCINC, SC, SCINC, SC 3, SCINC, SC, SCINC, SC 3. (16)


Rounds 5 – 9: SC around. (16)


Round 10: (SCDEC) x 3, SC 10. (13)


Round 11: (SCDEC) x 3, SC 7. (10) – Add stuffing to the foot. Stuff firmly.  Do not add any more stuffing to the foot beyond this point.


Rounds 12 – 16: SC around. (10)


Round 17: (SCDEC) x 5. (5)

FO leaving a long tail for sewing.  Weave the tail through the FLO of the last round to close the hole.  Flatten the part of the foot that was not stuffed.  This part will lay flat against the bottom of the body. 

Pin the feet to the body and wait to sew them on until after both thighs are completed.

Thighs (Make Two)

Round 1: Using Colour A, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC. (6)


Round 2: (SCINC) x 6. (12)


Round 3: (SC, SCINC) x 6. (18)


Round 4: (SC 2, SCINC) x 6. (24)


Round 5: (SC 3, SCINC) x 6. (30)


Rounds 6 – 8: SC around. (30)

Round 9: SCDEC, SC 13, SCDEC, SC 13. (28)


Round 10: SC around. (28)


Round 11: (SCDEC) x 2, SC 10, (SCDEC) x 2, SC 10. (24)


Round 12: SC around. (24)


Round 13: (SCDEC) x 2, SC 8, (SCDEC) x 2, SC 8. (20)


Round 14: SC around. (20)


Round 15: (SCDEC) x 2, SC 6, (SCDEC) x 2, SC 6. (16)


Round 16:  SC around. (16)


Join last ST to the first ST with a SL ST. 

FO leaving a long tail to sew piece to body. Flatten the piece (it will naturally want to curve) and pin around the outside of the piece to either side of the lower part of the body, lining the bottoms of the piece up with the outside edge of each foot. 

Use the tail to sew the thigh around the outside of the thigh piece, to the body and add a bit of stuffing between the thigh and the body before closing it up.  Sew along the bottom of the thigh to the foot.  This will help it look like it’s all one piece. 

Use the tail on the foot to sew the foot to the bottom of the body.  Repeat with the other thigh/foot.

Tail

Round 1: Using Colour B, make a MC and SC 4 into the MC. (4)


Round 2: SC around. (4)


Round 3: (SCINC, SC) x 2. (6)


Round 4: SC around. (6) – Start stuffing.  Adding more stuffing after each few rows.  Stuff firmly.


Round 5: (SCINC, SC 2) x 2. (8)


Rounds 6 – 8: SC around. (8)


Round 9: (SC 3, SCINC) x 2. (10)


Rounds 10 – 26: SC around. (10)

Join last ST to the first ST with a SL ST.  FO leaving a long tail for sewing. 

Stand your dog upright and place the tail near the bottom of the base, at the back of the dog so it rests on the table and assists the dog in standing upright on its own.  Sew to the base using the tail of yarn left from finishing the tail.

Nose

Thread a tapestry needle with black embroidery thread and knot the ends together.  Pull the needle through a stitch near the back of the head and out through the center of the magic circle in the front of the head, pulling the knot into the dog’s head to hide it. 

Start to embroider the nose in a rounded triangular shape, working into Round 3 of the head and bringing the thread back out through the magic circle of the head. 

Work over this section until you have a filled in shape that resembles an upside down triangle with a rounded edge.  The outside edges of my nose line up with the outside edges of the eyes. 

FO and weave in end. 

That’s it! I hope that you had so much fun making your new four-legged friend!

I’d love to see your finished furry friend made with this free crochet dog pattern!  Please share your finished makes by tagging the pattern on Ravelry, sharing it to our Facebook page or Instagram.  Don’t forget to follow me on Facebook, Instagram and Pinterest 

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