Free Amigurumi Crochet Monkey Pattern Mischief the Monkey

I’m thrilled to share my latest creation with you – a super cute crochet monkey pattern called Mischief the Monkey! This free amigurumi pattern is an easy pattern with detailed instructions. This cute stuffed monkey toy is just the perfect size for kids to cuddle, making it a fantastic gift that kids will go bananas for. 

*This post may contain affiliate links, which means that I may earn a small commission from qualifying purchases made through these links at no extra cost to you. All opinions are my own.*

Prefer an ad-free experience or want to print this pattern out? Grab a printable ad-free PDF version of this pattern, which includes photo tutorial support for the ears and embroidery in my Ravelry and Etsy shop.

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Hobbii Toucan Yarn

​I used Hobbii Toucan Yarn to design this monkey crochet pattern.  It’s a super bulky chenille yarn that is currently available in 28 different colors.

​I was asked by Hobbii Yarn to participate in a challenge to design an amigurumi toy with Hobbii Toucan but I could only use shades of the same color to make it.

I knew right away that I wanted to design a free crochet monkey pattern but brown yarn wasn’t in stock!  So I decided to use shades of purple to make my adorable monkey

​This yarn is incredibly soft and creates a beautiful fabric.  Because of how this (and many other plush yarns) are constructed, it is more delicate than a plied yarn and can be prone to snapping if you pull on your yarn tail too hard.

Check out the note section of this pattern to find my tip for overcoming this issue when making a magic circle with this yarn.

Plush Yarn Substitutions For This Crochet Monkey Pattern:

​Here are some other plush yarns that could also work for this plush toy project:

• Hobbii Honey Bunny & Honey Bunny Shine
  
  
• Paintbox Yarns Chenille
  
  
• Premier Yarns Parfait Chunky
  
  
• King Cole Yummy
  
  
• Universal Yarn Bella Chenille
  
  
• Himalaya Yarn Dolphin Baby
  
  
• Bernat Blanket and Bernat Baby Blanket

Do I Have To Use Plush Yarn To Follow This Written Pattern?

​Absolutely not! If you have another yarn weight that you would like to use, you can sub that in for the plush yarn.  

If you do that, keep in mind that you’ll need to adjust your hook size to work with your yarn and by making that change, it will affect the size of your crochet monkey and how much yarn is needed to finish your amigurumi animal.

Softie Crochet Along 2024

This crochet monkey pattern is being released as part of the 2024 Softie Crochet Along with Crochet Along Central.

Every Monday from March 18 to June 24, 2024, we’ll share a free crochet pattern for a softie from a different crocheter. You can make these softies to keep, for gifts, to sell at a craft fair, or to donate to charity while chatting with other crocheters in our groups and sharing your projects to win giveaway prizes!

Learn More about the CAL here: https://undergroundcrafter.com/2024/03/18/2024-softie-crochet-along/

Disclaimer

Feel free to sell the physical items created with this free crochet pattern but please provide pattern credit back to me when posting online, and please provide a link to my blog: https://theloopylamb.com.  Please do not resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern in any printed or digital form, or claim this pattern as your own work, patterns or design.  Please do not use my photos when selling your finished items.  This pattern is for personal use only. 

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Skill Level: 

• Easy

Terminology: 

• US Terms

Supplies:
(Shopping via the links in this supplies list helps me keep my patterns free)

• J / 6.0 mm Crochet Hook < — I used my favorite ergonomic hooks for this project
  
  
• Hobbii Toucan Yarn (100% Polyester, Super Bulky (6), 131yds/120m, 100g/3.5oz), in the following yarn colors and amounts:
  1. Color A: Dark Purple (Col. 19) – 2 balls (approx. 234 yds / 178g) 
  2. Color B: Light Purple (Col. 17) – 1 ball (approx. 124 yds / 94g)
     
     
• 18 mm Safety Eyes – I used Violet Glitter Safety Eyes from Chateau Bornais Crochet
  
  
• Polyfil Stuffing (also available at Michaels Stores)
  
  
• Scissors
  
  
• Tapestry Needle / Yarn Needle
  
  
• Stitch Markers 
  
  
• Sewing Pins <– these are my favorite for amigurumi!
   
   

Abbreviations:
(click the links in this list to view a photo and video tutorial for that stitch/technique)

• BLO = Back Loop Only
  
  
• BOB = Bobble (see Special Stitches & Techniques)
  
  
• CH(s) = Chain(s)
  
  
• FLO = Front Loop Only
  
  
• FO = Finish Off
  
  
• MC = Magic Circle / Magic Ring
  
  
• RS = Right Side
  
  
• SC = Single Crochet 
  
  
• SCDEC = Single Crochet Decrease
  
  
• SCINC = Single Crochet Increase / 2 Single Crochet stitches worked in the same stitch
  
  
• SL ST = Slip Stitch
  
  
• ST(s) = Stitch(es)
  
  
• WS(s) = Wrong Side(s)
  
  
• YO = Yarn Over

Special Stitches & Techniques:  

• Bobble (BOB): YO and insert hook into indicated ST. *YO and pull up a loop. YO and pull through first 2 loops on hook (2 loops remain on hook). Repeat from 3 more times (5 loops on hook). YO and pull through all 5 loops on hook.
  
  
  
• Invisible Finish/Join: FO leaving a long tail. Thread the tail onto a tapestry needle.  Place the tapestry needle through the top of the 2^nd ST from front to back and pull through.  Place tip of needle into top of the last ST of the round, under the back loop of the stitch, and pull through to the back of the work.  Weave in the end. Find a tutorial here: https://theloopylamb.com/invisible-finish-crochet-tutorial/
  
  
  
• Yarn Under Single Crochet: Insert hook into indicated stitch, yarn under hook and pull up a loop (2 loops on your hook), yarn over hook and pull through both loops on your hook. Find a tutorial here: https://theloopylamb.com/how-to-yarn-under-single-crochet-for-amigurumi-tutorial/

Finished Size: 

• Approximately 18.5” tall from bottom of feet to top of head when crocheted to gauge

 Gauge: 

• Rounds 1 – 6 = 4 inches across the widest point

NOTES:

• Gauge is not vital to the project but it may affect the amount of yarn needed for the project and the size of your finished toy.   
  
  
• Maintain a consistent tension throughout the project to ensure the pieces fit together as expected.  
  
  
• A 6.0mm crochet hook is recommended for this pattern but I suggest using whatever hook size needed to create a tight, closed fabric free of holes, or whatever hook size needed to match the given gauge.
  
  
  • If you find that you have holes in your fabric using the recommended hook size, try going down a hook size until you create a tight fabric with no holes in it and no stuffing is showing through.
    
    
    
• This pattern can be worked in either regular single crochet or the yarn under single crochet. My sample was done using regular single crochet. Keep in mind that if you use the yarn under single crochet, it may affect the amount of yarn used and the size of your toy.
  
  
  
• Instructions within the brackets () are to be repeated the number of times specified next to the brackets.
  
  
  
• Reading the Pattern: Instructions in brackets: I.e.: (SC, SCINC) x 6, this means you’ll work 1 SC stitch in the first stitch and then SCINC in the next and you’ll repeat that pattern a total of 6 times.
  
  
  • Numbers indicated in () at the end of a Round/Row indicate the number of stitches you should have at the end of the Round/Row. I recommend counting your stitches at the end of each Round/Row before moving on to the next.
    
    
  • Where SC followed by a number (i.e. SC 14), you’ll work 1 SC stitch in the next 14 stitches or chains, unless the pattern specifies to work those stitches into the same stitch or chain.
    
    
    
• The pieces in this pattern are worked in continuous Rounds (unless stated otherwise).  Do not join at the end of the Round, unless indicated.  A stitch marker is used to keep track of the beginning of the Round. 
  
  
  
• Magic Circle Substitution: If you struggle with the MC or your yarn breaks when you try to do a MC with it, use a CH 2 and work all Round 1 stitches into the 2^nd chain from the hook.
  
  
  
• For a cleaner SCDEC, do your SCDEC under the front loops only of each stitch rather than under both loops (except when indicated to work your ST in a different location i.e. BLO).  This is often referred to as an invisible decrease. Find my tutorial here: https://theloopylamb.com/how-to-do-an-invisible-decrease/
  
  
  
• Color changes are done using the last YO of the last ST before the color change is indicated.
  
  
  
• Place scrap pieces of yarn or stitch markers into the stitches indicated for safety eye placement until you have crocheted past that point far enough to insert the safety eyes with the back on them without them getting in the way of your crocheting.
  
  
  
• I recommend using sewing pins to help get the ideal placement of your pieces and to hold the pieces in place while you sew.
  
  
  
• A smooth, worsted weight yarn (like an acrylic yarn)  of similar colors can be used to sew the pieces onto the toy instead of the yarn used to crochet the toy if you find that the yarn is breaking when using it to sew.

Prefer an ad-free experience or want to print this pattern out? Grab a printable ad-free PDF version of this pattern, which includes photo tutorial support for the ears and embroidery in my Ravelry and Etsy shop.

Video Tutorials That Will Help You With This Crochet Monkey Pattern

Head/Body: 

Round 1:  Using Color A, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC. (6)

Round 2: (SCINC) x 6. (12)

Round 3: (SC, SCINC) x 6. (18)

Round 4: SC, SCINC, (SC 2, SCINC) x 5, SC. (24)

Round 5: (SC 3, SCINC) x 6. (30)

Round 6: SC 2, SCINC, (SC 4, SCINC) x 5, SC 2. (36)

Gauge Check: Piece should measure 4” across the widest part of the piece at this point.

Rounds 7 – 12:  SC around. (36)

Round 13: SC 2, SCDEC, (SC 4, SCDEC) x 5, SC 2. (30)

Round 14: SC around. (30)

Round 15: (SC 3, SCDEC) x 6. (24) – Start stuffing. Continue to add stuffing as you progress.  Stuff firmly.

Round 16: SC around. (24)

Round 17: SC, SCDEC, (SC 2, SCDEC) x 5, SC. (18)

Rounds 18 – 22: SC around. (18)

Round 23: (SC, SCDEC) x 6. (12)

Round 24: SC around. (12)

Round 25: (SC, SCINC) x 6. (18)

Round 26: SC, SCINC, (SC 2, SCINC) x 5, SC. (24)

Round 27: (SC 3, SCINC) x 6. (30)

Round 28: SC 2, SCINC, (SC 4, SCINC) x 5, SC 2. (36)

Round 29: (SC 5, SCINC) x 6. (42)

Rounds 30 – 37: SC around. (42)

Round 38: (SC 5, SCDEC) x 6. (36)

Round 39: SC 2, SCDEC, (SC 4, SCDEC) x 5, SC 2. (30)

Round 40: SC around. (30)

Round 41: (SC 3, SCDEC) x 6. (24)

Round 42: SC, SCDEC, (SC 2, SCDEC) x 5, SC. (18)

Round 43: (SC, SCDEC) x 6. (12)

Round 44: (SCDEC) x 6. (6)

FO leaving a long yarn tail.  

Thread the yarn tail onto the tapestry needle and use the needle to weave the yarn tail through the FLO of each ST of the last round (see video below for assistance).

Pull the yarn tail tight to cinch the hole closed. Weave in ends.

Eye Patches (Make 2): 

Round 1:  Using Color B, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC. (6)

Round 2: (SCINC) x 6. (12)

FO using invisible join (see Special Stitches & Techniques or video below) and leaving a long yarn tail for sewing.  

Insert safety eyes through the corner of the MC made in Round 1 and place backing on the eyes. Set aside for assembly.
 

Muzzle: 

Using Color B, CH 8.

Round 1: SCINC, in the 2nd CH from the hook, SC 5, work 5 SC in the last CH, working on the other side of the chain, SC 5, work 3 SC in the last ST. (20)

Need help with Round 1 of the muzzle? Check out my How to work on both sides of the chain tutorial here or the video below.

Round 2:  SC, SCINC, SC 5, (SCINC, SC) x 2, SCINC, SC 5, SCINC, SC, SCINC. (26)

Rounds 3 – 5: SC around. (26)

FO using invisible join (see Special Stitches & Techniques) and leaving a long yarn tail for sewing.  Set aside for assembly.

Other Kinds of Cute Amigurumi Patterns You’ll Love

• Mini No-Sew Amigurumi Octopus (with step-by-step video tutorial)
• Crochetasaurus Rex
• Mini Crochet Bear with video tutorial

Left Arm: 

Round 1:  Using Color B, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC. (6)

Round 2: (SCINC) x 6. (12)

Rounds 3 – 4: SC around. (12)

Round 5: BOB, SC 11. (12)

Round 6: SC around. (12)

Round 7: SC 10, change to Color A, SC  2. (12) – Start stuffing arm. Continue to add stuffing as you progress.  Stuff firmly.

 Round 8: (SC 2, SCDEC) x 3. (9)

Rounds 9 – 24: SC around. (9)

FO leaving a long yarn tail for sewing. Set aside for assembly.

Right Arm: 

Round 1:  Using Color B, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC. (6)

Round 2: (SCINC) x 6. (12)

Rounds 3 – 4: SC around. (12)

Round 5: BOB, SC 11. (12)

Rounds 6 – 7: SC around. (12)

Round 8: SC 5, change to Color A, SC  7. (12) – Start stuffing arm. Continue to add stuffing as you progress.  Stuff firmly.

Round 9: (SC 2, SCDEC) x 3. (9)

Rounds 10 – 24: SC around. (9)

FO leaving a long yarn tail for sewing. Set aside for assembly.

Legs (Make 2): 

Round 1:  Using Color B, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC. (6)

Round 2: (SCINC) x 6. (12)

Round 3: (SC, SCINC) x 6. (18)

Round 4: SC, SCINC, (SC 2, SCINC) x 5, SC. (24)

Rounds 5 –7: SC around. (24) 

Round 8: (SCDEC) x 6, SC 12. (18) – Start stuffing, continuing to add stuffing as you progress. Stuff firmly.

Round 9: (SCDEC) x 6, SC 6. (12)

Round 10: (SCDEC) x 2, SC 4, change to Color A, SC 4. (10)

Rounds 11 – 24: SC around. (10)

FO leaving a long yarn tail for sewing. Set aside for assembly.

Tail: 

Round 1:  Using Color A, make a MC and SC 5 into the MC. (5)

Rounds 2 – 37: SC around. (5) 

FO leaving a long tail for sewing. Do not stuff. Set aside for assembly.

Inner Ears (Make 2):

Round 1:  Using Color B, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC. (6)

Round 2: (SCINC) x 6. (12)

FO using invisible join.  Weave in ends.

Outer Ears (Make 2):

Round 1:  Using Color A, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC. (6)

Round 2: (SCINC) x 6. Join the last ST to the first ST with a SL ST. (12)

Round 3: CH 1 and turn. Place an Inner Ear on top of the Outer Ear with the WS facing the Outer Ear (WSs of both pieces should be together). Working all STs in this Round through the FLO of the Inner Ear and both loops of the ST behind it in the Outer Ear, (SC, SCINC) x 6. (18)

Need help with this step? Find photo tutorial support for this step in the printable PDF file of this pattern available in my Ravelry and Etsy shops.

FO using invisible join (see special stitches and techniques), leaving a long tail for sewing. Set aside for assembly.

Assembly:

If using pins, I recommend reading through the instructions below and pinning the pieces in place before you begin sewing to ensure you’re happy with the placement before sewing.

1. Arms: Thread yarn tail onto a tapestry needle and sew the left arm to the left side of the body and the right arm to the right side of the body, 1 round below the indent for the neck.  Weave in ends.
   
   
   
   
2. Legs: Thread yarn tail onto a tapestry needle and sew the legs to the bottom of the body, having the top of the legs line up with Round 3.  Weave in ends.
   
   
   
   
3. Tail: Thread yarn tail onto a tapestry needle and sew the tail to the back of the body around Round 5. Weave in ends.
   
   
   
   
4. Eye Patches: Thread yarn tail onto a tapestry needle and with the front of the body facing you, use the yarn tails to sew each eye patch over Rounds 34 – 38 with 2 stitches between them in the center.  Weave in ends.
   
   
   
   
5. Ears: Thread yarn tail onto a tapestry needle and use yarn tail to sew an ear to either side of the head between Rounds 33 – 36. Weave in ends.
   
   
   
   
6. Muzzle: Stuff the muzzle with stuffing. Thread yarn tail onto a tapestry needle and use it to sew the muzzle onto the face over Rounds 29 – 35, with the top of the muzzle overlapping the bottom of the eye patches.  Make sure to add stuffing to the muzzle as you sew it to the head. Weave in ends.
   
   
   
   
7. Nose: Thread a length of yarn in Color A that’s approximately 10 – 15” long onto a tapestry needle.  Insert the needle anywhere in the head and bring it out the center point of the muzzle in Round 2. Embroider a V-shape with the yarn to create the nose.  There should be 4 stitches between the top points of the V. Weave in ends. Need help with this part? Photo support is available in the printable PDF available in my Ravelry or Etsy shops.

That’s it! I hope that you enjoyed making Mischief the Monkey amigurumi pattern. I’d love to see your finished little monkey! If you share your crochet toys on social media, please tag me @theloopylamb and/or use the hashtag #theloopylamb so I can see your project and share it as well.

Join The Loopy Lamb Crochet Community Facebook Group to connect with other crafty friends and share your fabulous projects made with this amigurumi crochet monkey pattern,

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