Easy No Sew Amigurumi Octopus – Free Crochet Pattern

My Ozzy Octopus no sew amigurumi octopus pattern is a great project that’s made with basic stitches and is perfect for little hands to play with.  In this blog post, you’ll find the written version of the beginner-friendly pattern with clear instructions as well as a step-by-step video tutorial that walks you through the pattern beginning to end.

Whether you’re looking for fun plush toys to make for kids, selling at craft fairs or just want a cute, fun and quick project to make, this little guy is just the ticket.

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Want to print out this pattern? Grab a premium, ad-free PDF printer friendly, instant download version of this pattern in my Etsy and Ravelry stores.

What Type of Yarn Do I Need to Make This Pattern?

I used King Cole Yummy yarn in this pattern, which is a Bulky (5) yarn (find King Cole Yummy Yarn here at WeCrochet). This yarn is great for making bulky amigurumi projects that are soft to the touch but is a slightly thinner yarn than the Super Bulky (6) blanket yarns (like Bernat Blanket Yarn) that are currently popular for amigurumi.

Can I Use a Different Weight Yarn To Make This Free Octopus Crochet Pattern?

Absolutely!  The great thing about amigurumi patterns is that you can sub in a different yarn more easily than with other crochet patterns.  If you check out my video tutorial for this project, I made a little octopus following the same directions but subbing in a smooth, worsted weight (4) acrylic yarn and a smaller hook (3.5mm / E). Of course, because I used a different sized yarn, I needed to change the size of the safety eyes that I used.  In my smaller octopus, I used 16mm safety eyes from Chateau Bornais Crochet.

You can see some images below of the size difference when changing hook yarn and crochet hook size.

How Do I Make This Pattern Bigger or Smaller?

The easy way to make this pattern bigger or smaller is to substitute in a heavier weight yarn and bigger crochet hook to make your toy bigger and a thinner yarn and smaller crochet hook to make it smaller.  Remember that if you do make substitutions, it will affect the amount of yarn that you use and you’ll have to choose a different eye size. 

Toy Box Crochet Along – More Free Patterns & Chances to Win Prizes

This pattern was released as part of the 2025 CAL Central Toy Box CAL.

Every Monday, from March 3 to August 11, 2025, we’ll share a free crochet pattern for a toy, doll, amigurumi, softie, or plushie from a different crocheter. There are four different themes:

• Garden Friends
• Farm Friends
• Beach and Ocean
• Woodland Creatures

This lets you crochet up all of your favorite kinds of toys. You can make them to keep, for gifts, to host a themed party, sell at a craft fair, put into a basket of goodies, or donate to charity while chatting with other crocheters in our groups and sharing your projects to win giveaway prizes!

To learn more about the Toy Box CAL visit Underground Crafter!

Supplies:

• H / 5.0 mm Crochet Hook – I used my favorite ergonomic crochet hook found here
  
  
• King Cole Yummy (100% Polyester, Bulky (5), 131yds/120m, 100g/3.5oz), 1 skein in your preferred color (approx. 43 yds) – my samples used Sugar Pink & Lilac
  
  
• 25 mm Safety Eyes – I used Crescent Glitter Eyes from Chateau Bornais Crochet
  
  
• Polyester Stuffing
  
  
• Scissors
  
  
• Tapestry Needle / Yarn Needle
  
  
• Stitch Marker
  
  
• Scrap Piece of Yarn (optional)

Abbreviations:

• BLO = Back Loop Only
  
  
• CH = Chain
  
  
• DC = Double Crochet
  
  
• FLO = Front Loop Only
  
  
• FO = Finish Off
  
  
• HDC = Half Double Crochet
  
  
• MC = Magic Circle / Magic Ring
  
  
• SC = Single Crochet
  
  
• SCDEC = Single Crochet Decrease
  
  
• SCINC = Single Crochet Increase / 2 SC stitches worked in the same stitch
  
  
• SL ST = Slip Stitch
  
  
• ST(s) = Stitches
  
  
• YO = Yarn Over

Special Stitches & Techniques: 

• Yarn Under Single Crochet: Insert hook into indicated stitch, yarn under hook and pull up a loop (2 loops on your hook), yarn over hook and pull through both loops on your hook. Find a step-by-step yarn under single crochet tutorial here.

NOTES:           

• Gauge is not vital to the project but it may affect the amount of yarn needed for the project and the size of your toy. 
  
  
• This toy is worked from the top of the head down to the tentacles.
  
  
• Maintain a consistent tension throughout the project to ensure the pieces fit together as expected. 
  
  
• A 5.0mm crochet hook is the recommended crochet hook size for this pattern but I suggest using whatever hook size needed to create a tight, closed fabric free of holes, or whatever hook size needed to match the given gauge.
  
  
  • If you find that you have holes in your fabric using the recommended hook size, try going down a hook size until you create a tight fabric with no holes in it and no stuffing is showing through.
    
    
• This pattern can be worked in either regular single crochet or the yarn under single crochet. My sample was done using regular single crochet. Keep in mind that if you use the yarn under single crochet, it may affect the amount of yarn used and the size of your toy.
  
  
• Reading the Pattern: Instructions in brackets: I.e., (SC, SCINC) x 6, this means you’ll work 1 single crochet stitch in the first stitch and then SCINC in the next stitch, and you’ll repeat that pattern a total of 6 times.
  
  
  • Numbers indicated in () at the end of a Round/Row indicate the number of stitches you should have at the end of the Round/Row. I recommend counting your stitches at the end of each Round/Row before moving on to the next.
  
  
  
  • Where SC followed by a number (i.e. SC 14), you’ll work 1 SC stitch in the next 14 stitches or chains, unless the pattern specifies to work those stitches into the same stitch or chain.
    
    
• This pattern is worked in continuous rounds (unless stated otherwise).  Do not join at the end of the Round, unless indicated.  A stitch marker is used to keep track of the beginning of the round.
  
  
• Magic Circle Substitution: If you struggle with the MC or your yarn breaks when you try to do a MC with it, use a CH 2 and work all Round 1 stitches into the 2^nd chain from the hook.
  
  
• For a cleaner SCDEC, do your SCDEC under the front loops only of each stitch rather than under both loops (except when indicated to work your ST in a different location i.e. BLO).  This is often referred to as an invisible decrease. Find my step-by-step invisible decrease tutorial here.
  
  
• Place scrap pieces of yarn or stitch markers into the stitches indicated for safety eye placement until you have crocheted past that point far enough to insert the safety eyes with the back on them without them getting in the way of your crocheting.
  
  
• If you’re having a hard time seeing the BLO in Round 14 when working on Round 16, weave a scrap piece of yarn in a contrasting colour through the BLO on Round 14 before starting Round 15.

Want to print out this pattern? Grab a premium, ad-free printer friendly PDF pattern in my Etsy and Ravelry stores.

Easy No Sew Amigurumi Octopus – Free Crochet Pattern Video Tutorial

Body

Round 1: Make a MC and SC 6 into the MC. (6)

Round 2: (SCINC) x 6. (12)

Round 3: (SC, SCINC) x 6. (18)

Round 4: SC, SCINC, (SC 2, SCINC) x 5, SC. (24)

Gauge Check: Piece should measure 2.25” across the widest part at this point.

Rounds 5 – 8: SC around. (24) – Insert safety eyes in Round 7 with 3 sts between them

Round 9: (SCDEC, SC 6) x 3. (21)

Round 10: SC around. (21)

Round 11: (SC 5, SCDEC) x 3. (18)

Round 12: SC around. (18) – start stuffing.  Continue to add stuffing as you work. Stuff firmly.

Round 13: (SCDEC, SC 7) x 2. (16)

Round 14: SC around. (16)

Do not FO.  Continue onto Tentacles.

Tentacles

In this section, you’ll create a chain for each Tentacle, then turn and work back down the chain toward the Body. To secure the Tentacle, you’ll work a stitch into the Body before beginning the next tentacle. I recommend leaving your stitch marker in the first stitch of Round 14 until you’re prepared to move on to Round 16.

Round 15: CH 15, turn to work back down the chain, SL ST in the second chain from the hook, SCINC 2, SC, HDC 6, DC 3, HDC, FLO SCDEC over the 1^st and 2^nd STs of Round 14 of the Body (first tentacle complete). *CH 15, turn to work back down the chain, SL ST in the 2^nd CH from the hook, SCINC 2, SC, HDC 6, DC 3, HDC, FLO SCDEC over the next 2 STs of Round 14 of the Body, repeat from * 6 more times.  (8 tentacles with 15 STs each)

Remove the hook from the working loop and insert it from back to front through the first ST of Round 14. Place the loop back on your hook and pull the hook to the back of the fabric. CH 1 to secure. 

For Round 16, you’ll be working in the BLO of Round 14. Take a moment to add the stuffing to your toy now before moving on. Stuff firmly.

Round 16: Working in the BLO of Round 14, (SCDEC) x 8. (8)

FO leaving a long yarn tail.  Finish stuffing.  Thread yarn tail onto tapestry needle and weave the yarn tail through FLO of the last round and pull tight to close up the hole. Weave in ends.

That’s it! I hope you enjoyed this free amigurumi octopus crochet pattern. I’d love to see your cute crochet octopus toys! Share your amigurumi octopus made with this free crochet pattern with me on social media by tagging me @theloopylamb or using #theloopylamb in your posts.

Want to make a mini octopus next? Check out my Octo Ollie mini no sew pattern here.  Happy Crocheting! 

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