I’m back this week with the third and final installment of My Cuddle Friends crochet lovey pattern series. This week I have a crochet bunny lovey free pattern to share with you call called My Cuddle Bunny Lovey.
This lovey pattern features a cute and cuddly bunny head and arms and a beautiful lovey blanket attached to it. I’ve used three different, coordinating colours for my blanket but it’s easily customized to suit your personal needs and tastes.
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Pin this Crochet Bunny Lovey Free Pattern for Later Save
Prefer an ad-free experience or want to print this pattern out? Grab an inexpensive ad-free PDF version of this crochet pattern in my Ravelry and Etsy shops.
This crochet bunny lovey free pattern makes the perfect crochet baby shower gift! Crochet loveys are always a big hit at baby showers and they always get great reactions from everyone. It always makes us feel so wonderful when you get such a nice reaction to gift you give. Even better when it’s something you made yourself and put all that love and care into.
Special Techniques Used
For this project, we’ll be doing something called eye indentation. This is used to give some shape to the bunny’s face. Don’t let that intimidate you though. It’s as easy as tying a piece of yarn to each of the eye, pulling those pieces of yarn and tying a knot. I have step-by-step instructions and a diagram to help you out. If you’d like to skip this step, that’s ok, your bunny will still look great, it just won’t have the exact same shape.
Prefer to Make the Entire Bunny Toy?
If you enjoy this crochet bunny lovey free pattern but you’re looking for a full-sized crochet bunny pattern instead, check out my amigurumi bunny pattern called Buttons the Bunny. He also makes a fantastic shower gift (a baby shower gift was actually the reason I created that pattern) and he even comes with a cute little sweater.
Other Free Crochet Lovey Patterns
Missed the other two My Cuddle friends crochet lovey patterns? Check them out here:
Disclaimer
Feel free to sell the physical items created with this free crochet pattern but please provide pattern credit back to me as the crochet designer when posting online, and please provide a link to my blog: https://theloopylamb.com. Please do not resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern in any printed or digital form, or claim this pattern as your own work, patterns or design. Please do not use my photos when selling your finished items. This pattern is for personal use only.
Skill Level:
- Easy
Terminology:
- US Terms
Supplies:
- I / 5.5 mm Crochet Hook
- 3.5mm Furls Crochet Hook
- WeCrochet Brava Worsted Weight (100% Premium Acrylic, Worsted Weight (4), 218yds/200m, 100g/3.5oz), 1 skein each of:
- 2 – 15” long pieces of yarn in two different colours for eye indentation
- 2 – 10mm Black Safety Eyes
- Pink Embroidery Thread
- Polyester Stuffing
- Tapestry Needle / Yarn Needle
- Scissors
- Stitch Marker
Abbreviations:
(Click links in list to view a photo & step-by-step video tutorial for that stitch / technique)
- CH(s) = Chain(s)
- CH SP(s) = Chain Space (s)
- DC = Double Crochet
- FLO = Front Loops Only
- FO = Finish Off
- MC = Magic Circle / Magic Ring
- SC = Single Crochet
- SCDEC – Single Crochet Decrease
- SC INC = Single Crochet Increase / 2 Single crochet stitches in the same stitch
- SL ST = Slip Stitch
- SP = Space
- ST(s) = Stitch(es)
- YO = Yarn Over
Finished Size:
- Approximately 12 inches tall from tips of ears to bottoms corner of blanket, when attached.
Gauge:
- Bunny: 10 sts across x 10 rows = 2” square
- Blanket: 16 sts x 8 rows = 4”
NOTES:
- Gauge is not vital to the project but it may affect the amount of yarn needed for the project and the size of your toy and blanket. Keep a consistent tension throughout your project to ensure the pieces fit together properly.
- A 3.5mm crochet hook is recommended for this bunny but I suggest using whatever hook size needed to create a tight, closed fabric free of holes, or whatever hook size needed to match the given gauge.
- If you find that you have holes in your fabric using the recommended hook size, try going down a hook size until you create a tight fabric with no holes in it and no stuffing is showing through.
- If you find that you have holes in your fabric using the recommended hook size, try going down a hook size until you create a tight fabric with no holes in it and no stuffing is showing through.
- Reading the Pattern: Instructions in brackets: I.e.: (SC, SCINC) x 6, this means you’ll work 1 SC stitch in the first stitch and then SCINC in the next st and you’ll repeat that pattern a total of 6 times.
- Numbers indicated in () at the end of a Round/Row indicate the number of stitches you should have at the end of the Round/Row. I recommend counting your stitches at the end of each Round/Row before moving on to the next.
- Where SC followed by a number (i.e. SC 14), you’ll work 1 SC stitch in the next 14 stitches or chains, unless the pattern specifies to work those stitches into the same stitch or chain.
- All the amigurumi parts of the bunny are worked in continuous rounds. Do not join at the end of the row, unless indicated. A stitch marker is used to keep track of the beginning of the round.
- For a cleaner SCDEC, do your SCDEC under the front loops only of the stitch rather than under both loops. This is often referred to as an invisible decrease -> Check out my invisible decrease tutorial.
- Colour changes are done using the last YO of the previous ST.
- Place scrap pieces of yarn or stitch markers into the stitches for the safety eyes until you have crocheted past that point far enough to insert the safety eyes with the backs on them without them getting in the way of your crocheting.
- The CH 2 spaces in the corners of the blanket are not included in the stitch count for each row.
- I recommend using sewing pins to help get the ideal placement of your pieces and to hold the pieces in place while you sew.
Purchase an inexpensive ad-free PDF version of this crochet bunny lovey pattern in my Ravelry and Etsy shops.
Crochet Bunny Lovey Pattern – My Cuddle Bunny Crochet Lovey
Head:
Row 1: Using Brindle and a 3.5mm hook, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC. (6)
Row 2: (SCINC) x 6. (12)
Row 3: (SC, SCINC) x 6. (18)
Row 4: SC, SCINC, (SC 2, SCINC) x 5, SC. (24)
Row 5: (SC 3, SCINC) x 6. (30)
Rows 6 – 7: SC around. (30)
Row 8: SC 2, SCINC (SC 4, SCINC) x 5, SC 2. (36)
Row 9: SC around. (36)
Row 10: (SC 5, SCINC) x 6. (42)
Row 11: SC 3, SCINC (SC 6, SCINC) x 5, SC 3. (48) – Place safety eyes in STs 27 and 44 of Row 11
To define the face, we will be using a technique called eye indentation. After inserting the safety eyes (don’t attach the washers yet), use your two long strands of yarn in different colours to tie knots around the post of each safety eye. Place the washers on the safety eyes. The long ends of your yarn should point downwards towards the back of the head and through the opening. Just before closing the head, we’ll pull these strings so that that the eyes will be pulled back, creating an indent in the face. As you add stuffing to the head, make sure these pieces don’t get pushed in with the stuffing.
Rows 12 – 16: SC around. (48)
Row 17: (SC 7, SCINC) x 6. (54) – Start stuffing, adding a bit more each row.
Row 18: SC around. (54)
Row 19: (SC 7, SCDEC) x 6. (48)
Row 20: SC around. (48)
Row 21: SC 3, SCDEC (SC 6, SCDEC) x 5, SC 3. (42)
Row 22: (SC 5, SCDEC) x 6. (36)
Row 23: SC 2, SCDEC (SC 4, SCDEC) x 5, SC 2. (30)
Now we’re going to indent the face. Using two differently coloured strands helps make this step a little easier so you know which yarn is tied to which eye. Take the yarn attached to the right eye post and cross it over top of the yarn attached to the left yarn post (creating an x with the yarn). Pull the yarn taught gently until you get the indentation in the face that you like.
You’ll want to make sure you have the amount of stuffing you want in the face when you do this step because if you have too much, you can pull your stitches or if you have too little, you can have too much of an indent. Once you’re satisfied, knot the two strands of yarn together. It is helpful if you have someone to hold the cross in the yarn while you make the knot so you don’t lose tension. Make sure the knot is secure. Tuck your ends into the head with the rest of the stuffing.
Row 24: (SC 3, SCDEC) x 6. (24) – Continue to add stuffing with each row.
Row 25: SC, SCDEC, (SC 2, SCDEC) x 5, SC. (18)
Row 26: (SC, SCDEC) x 6. (12) – Finish stuffing your head before closing in the next round.
Row 27: (SCDEC) x 6. (6)
FO. Weave the yarn tail through the FLO to close the opening. Weave in ends.
Embroidering the Nose
Using the pink embroidery thread and a tapestry needle, embroider the nose onto the face starting in the stitch directly below the MC. Put your needle through 1 stitch above and to the either side of the MC to create a V shape.
Continue embroidering through these three stitches until you are satisfied with your nose. FO and hide your ends inside the head.
Ears (Make 2)
Row 1: Using Brindle and a 3.5mm hook, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC. (6)
Row 2: (SC 2, SCINC) x 2. (8)
Row 3: SC around. (8)
Row 4: (SCINC, SC 3) x 2. (10)
Row 5: SC around. (10)
Row 6: (SCINC, SC) x 5. (15)
Row 7: SC around. (15)
Row 8: (SC 2, SCINC) x 5. (20)
Rows 9 – 16: SC around. (20)
Row 17: (SC 2, SCDEC) x 5. (15)
Row 18: SC around. (15)
Row 19: (SC, SCDEC) x 5. (10)
Row 20: SC around. (10)
FO leaving an extra long yarn tail to sew onto the top of the head. Do Not Stuff. When sewing the ears on, pull the yarn taught to help the ears stand upright. After I complete one pass-through, I go back and stitch them again to give them a firm foundation.
Arms (Make 2)
Row 1: Using Brindle and a 3.5mm hook, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC. (6)
Row 2: (SCINC) x 6. (12)
Row 3: (SC 2, SCINC) x 4. (16)
Rows 4 – 17: SC around. (16) – start stuffing, adding more stuffing with each added
round.
Row 18: (SC 2, SCDEC) x 4. (12)
FO leaving a long tail. Whip stitch the arm hole closed and sew onto either side of the bottom of the head.
Blanket
Round 1: Using Peacock and larger hook, CH 4 and join last CH to the first CH with a SL ST to form a ring. CH 3 (counts as first DC here and throughout), DC 2 into the ring, CH 2, *DC 3 into the ring, CH 2* repeat instructions in the **3 times. Join last ST to the top of the first ST (not the CH 3) with a SL ST (from here on out referred to only as Join). (12)
Round 2: CH 3, DC in same ST. DC, *(DC 2, CH 2, DC 2) in the next CH SP (corner space), DC 3* repeat instructions in ** 3 times, (DC 2, CH 2, DC 2) in the next CH SP. Join. (28)
Round 3: CH 3, DC in same ST. DC 3, *(DC 2, CH 2, DC 2) in the next CH SP, DC 7* repeat instructions in ** 3 times, (DC 2, CH 2, DC 2) in the next CH SP, DC 2. Join. (44)
Round 4 CH 3, DC in same ST. DC 5, *(DC 2, CH 2, DC 2) in the next CH SP, DC 11* repeat instructions in ** 3 times, (DC 2, CH 2, DC 2) in the next CH SP, DC 4. Join. (60)
Round 5: CH 3, DC in same ST. DC 7, *(DC 2, CH 2, DC 2) in the next CH SP, DC 15* repeat instructions in ** 3 times, (DC 2, CH 2, DC 2) in the next CH SP, DC 6. Join. (76)
Change to Tranquil
Round 6: CH 3, DC in same ST. DC 9, *(DC 2, CH 2, DC 2) in the next CH SP, DC 19* repeat instructions in ** 3 times, (DC 2, CH 2, DC 2) in the next CH SP, DC 8. Join. (92)
Change to Mint
Round 7: CH 3, DC in same ST. DC 11, *(DC 2, CH 2, DC 2) in the next CH SP, DC 23* repeat instructions in ** 3 times, (DC 2, CH 2, DC 2) in the next CH SP, DC 10. Join. (108)
Change to Peacock
Round 8: CH 3, DC in same ST. DC 13, *(DC 2, CH 2, DC 2) in the next CH SP, DC 27* repeat instructions in ** 3 times, (DC 2, CH 2, DC 2) in the next CH SP, DC 12. Join. (124)
Change to Tranquil
Round 9: CH 3, DC in same ST. DC 15, *(DC 2, CH 2, DC 2) in the next CH SP, DC 31* repeat instructions in ** 3 times, (DC 2, CH 2, DC 2) in the next CH SP, DC 14. Join. (140)
Change to Mint
Round 10: CH 3, DC in same ST. DC 17, *(DC 2, CH 2, DC 2) in the next CH SP, DC 35*
repeat instructions in ** 3 times, (DC 2, CH 2, DC 2) in the next CH SP, DC 16. Join. (156)
Change to Peacock
Round 11: CH 3, DC in same ST. DC 19, *(DC 2, CH 2, DC 2) in the next CH SP, DC 39* repeat instructions in ** 3 times, (DC 2, CH 2, DC 2) in the next CH SP, DC 18. Join. (172)
Change to Tranquil
Round 12: CH 3, DC in same ST. DC 21, *(DC 2, CH 2, DC 2) in the next CH SP, DC 43* repeat instructions in ** 3 times, (DC 2, CH 2, DC 2) in the next CH SP, DC 20. Join. (188)
FO and weave in ends.
Assembly:
Position the head with the arms already sewn to it, in the center of the blanket, facing one of the corners. Using a length of yarn that matches the blanket, sew the blanket to the base of the head in a circle approximately 1.5 – 2” in diameter. FO and weave in ends.
Other Free Patterns You’ll Love
That’s it! I hope that you enjoyed making my this bunny crochet lovey blanket. I’d love to see your finished bunny lovey blankets! If you share your crochet projects on social media, please tag me @theloopylamb and/or use the hashtag #theloopylamb so I can see your project and share it as well.
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