Bruce the Goose Crochet Pattern Free Amigurumi Pattern

Everyone needs a cute goose they can give a hug! This free crochet pattern creates a huggable amigurumi goose that’s so soft and snuggly, that it just begs to ve given a cuddle.

Bruce the Goose is an easy crochet pattern that is made of only single crochet stitches. While Bruce is a white goose, you can make Bruce in an color you’d like (i.e. grey, black, or even light blue or hot pink if you’d like).

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Grab a printable, ad-free PDF version of this pattern in my Ravelry and Etsy shops.

Bruce the Goose crochet pattern is released as part of the 2023 Softie Crochet Along. Thanks to the lovely folks at Lion Brand Yarns for providing me some of their wonderful yarns to use in order to create this crochet pattern for you.

How the 2023 Softie Crochet Along Works

Every Monday from March 20 to June 26, 2023, we’ll share a free crochet pattern for a softie. You can make these softies to keep, for gifts, or to donate to charity while chatting with other crocheters in our groups and sharing your projects to win giveaway prizes!

We’ve partnered with babé crochet co., GlassEyesOnline, KnitPal, Knitter’s Relief Balm, and Lion Brand to bring you some great prizes in our end-of-CAL giveaway. Don’t forget to enter the giveaway at Underground Crafter by Sunday, July 2, 2023 at 11:59 p.m. Eastern.

How To Join the 2023 Softie CAL

• You can join in by crocheting the patterns as you have time.
• Share your progress and post pictures of your finished projects. Tag your projects and posts #CALCentralCrochet on all social media. 
• If you’d like to chat with other crocheters, join the CAL Central Facebook group or visit this thread in the CAL Central Ravelry group.
• By the end of the CAL, you’ll have up to 15 awesome softies to cuddle with!

How to Crochet A Goose

The free pattern for Bruce the Goose was designed to have the head and body of the goose made in a single piece. That means that we crochet the head and neck of the goose and then the body.

Afterwards, the wings, tail, beak and feet are crocheted separately and sewn onto the body.

One of my favourite things about using fur yarn to make amigurumi is that it takes the stress out of sewing your toy together. Why? Because it doesn’t matter how messy your seam is, the fur covers it up.

Tips for Crocheting Bruce the Goose

• If this is your first fur yarn crochet project, make sure that you check out my Tips & Tricks for Crocheting with Fur Yarn so you can hit the ground running
  
  
• I have listed a wire brush in the supplies of this project because it takes an ok looking fur fabric and really kicks it up a notch. Use a wire brush to brush your toy all over (paying close attention to seams) to fluff up the fur.
  
  
• The Beak and Feet of our toy are created by crocheting on both sides of the chain. If you find that you have gaps in your chain when doing Round 1, start over and crochet over your yarn tail as you work. It can help to fill that in for you.

Disclaimer:

Feel free to sell the finished product created by this crochet goose pattern but please provide pattern credit back to me when posting online, and please provide a link to my blog: https://theloopylamb.com.  Please do not resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern in any printed or digital form, or claim this pattern as your own original design.  Please do not use my photos when selling your finished items.   

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Skill Level:

• Easy

Terminology:

• US Crochet Terms

Supplies:

• E / 3.5 mm Crochet Hook (or whatever sized hook needed to match gauge)
  
  
• K / 6.5mm Crochet Hook (or whatever sized hook needed to match gauge)
  
  
• Lion Brand Go For Faux (100% Polyester, Super Bulky (6), 65 yds/59 m, 100g/3.5oz), 2 skeins in Baked Alaska (approx. 113 yds)
  
  
• Lion Brand Feels Like Butta (100% Polyester, Worsted (4), 218 yds/199 m, 100g/3.5oz), 1 skein in Golden Sunshine (approx. 66yds)
  
  
• 2 – 20 mm Black Safety Eyes (I used Black Glitter Eyes from Chateau Bornais Crochet)
  
  
• Polyester Toy Stuffing
  
  
• Tapestry Needle
  
  
• Scissors
  
  
• Stitch Markers
  
  
• Sewing Pins (optional but helps make the assembly process easier)
  
  
• Wire Brush (Optional)
  
  
• Flexible Curling Rod or Wooden Dowel (Optional)

Abbreviations:

• CH = Chain
  
  
• FO = Finish Off
  
  
• MC = Magic Circle / Magic Ring
  
  
• SC(s) = Single Crochet(s)
  
  
• SCDEC = Single Crochet Decrease
  
  
• SCINC = Single Crochet Increase/ 2 SC STs in the same ST
  
  
• ST(s) = Stitch(es)

Special Stitches and Techniques:

• Invisible Finish/Join: FO leaving a long tail. Thread the tail onto a tapestry needle.  Place the tapestry needle through the top of the 2^nd ST from front to back and pull through.  Place tip of needle into top of the last ST of the round, under the back loop of the stitch, and pull through to the back of the work.  Weave in the end. Check out my free invisible finish/join tutorial here.
  
  

Finished Size:

• Approx. 18.5” long from tip of beak to tail after assembly

Gauge:

• Fur Yarn Gauge: Rounds 1 – 3 of Head & Body = 2.5” across at widest point
  
  
• Worsted Weight Yarn Gauge: Rounds 1 – 4 of the Beak = 1.5” across at longest point.

Notes:

• Gauge is important for ensuring that all of the parts of your toy fit appropriately.  Take time to check your gauge before starting.
  
  
• All pieces made in the fur yarn are worked and sewn onto the project with the wrong side facing out to show the better-looking side of the fur. 
  
  
• When making a magic circle with fur yarn, do not crochet over the tail. 
  
  
• If this is your first time working with faux fur yarns, I recommend checking out my tips & tricks for working with faux fur yarns video or written tips & tricks for working with faux fur yarns post.
  
  
• The pieces of this toy are worked in continuous rounds (unless stated otherwise).  Do not join at the end of the round, unless indicated.  A stitch marker is used to keep track of the beginning of the round.
  
  
• For a cleaner SCDEC on pieces worked in worsted weight yarn, do your SCDEC under the front loops only of each ST rather than under both loops.  This is often referred to as an invisible decrease.  Find my invisible decrease tutorial here.
  
  
• For pieces worked in fur yarn, use a normal SCDEC stitch instead of the invisible decrease.
  
  
• Over time, the stuffing in the neck will break down and the neck may become floppy. If you’d like to prevent that or just give the neck more support, you can add a wooden dowel or a flexible curling rod to the neck.
  
  
• Sewing pins are suggested to be used to assist with holding pieces in place while sewing them together
  
  
• After completing your toy, if you would like to fluff up the fur, use a wire brush to gently brush the fur. 

Grab a printable, ad-free PDF format of this pattern in my Ravelry and Etsy stores.

Video Tutorial to Help You Get Started With This Pattern

View this tutorial on YouTube

Bruce the Goose Crochet Pattern

Head & Body

Round 1: Using fur yarn and larger hook, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC. (6)

Round 2: (SCINC) x 6. (12)

Round 3: (SC, SCINC) x 6. (18)

Gauge Check: Piece should measure 2.5” across at widest point.

Rounds 4 – 8: SC around. (18) – Place safety eyes in Round 5 with 8 STs between them.

Round 9: (SC 4, SCDEC) x 3. (15) – Start stuffing, continuing to add stuffing to the toy as you progress.

Round 10: (SC 3, SCDEC) x 3. (12)

Round 11: (SC, SCDEC) x 4. (8)

Rounds 12 – 18: SC around. (8) – if using optional neck support (see notes) this is the time to add it to the neck, adding stuffing all around your support.

Round 19: (SC, SCINC) x 4. (12)

Round 20: (SC, SCINC) x 6. (18)

Round 21: SC around. (18)

Round 22: SC, SCINC, (SC 2, SCINC) x 5, SC. (24)

Round 23 – 37: SC around. (24)

Round 38:  SC, SCDEC, (SC 2, SCDEC) x 5, SC. (18)

Round 39: SC around. (18)

Round 40: (SC, SCDEC) x 6. (12)

Round 41: (SCDEC) x 6. (6)

FO leaving a long tail for sewing.  Thread yarn tail onto a tapestry needle and use the yarn tail to sew up the hole.  Weave in ends.

Wings (Make 2)

Round 1: Using fur yarn and larger hook, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC. (6)

Round 2:  SC around. (6)

Round 3: (SC, SCINC) x 3. (9)

Round 4: (SC 2, SCINC) x 3. (12)

Round 5:  SC around. (12)

Round 6: (SC 3, SCINC) x 3. (15)

Rounds 7 – 14:  SC around. (15)

Round 15: (SCDEC) x 7, SC. (8)

Round 16:  SC around. (8)

FO leaving a long tail for sewing.  Flatten piece. Do NOT stuff. Thread yarn tail onto a tapestry needle and use the yarn tail to sew a Wing to either side of the Body, working along the open edge of the Wing.

(Tip: Use sewing pins to help you get the best placement before starting to seam.  The pins can also hold the wings in place for you while you sew.)  Weave in ends.

Tail

Round 1: Using fur yarn and larger hook, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC. (6)

Round 2: SC around. (6)

Round 3: (SCINC) x 6. (12)

Round 4: (SC 3, SCINC) x 3. (15)

Rounds 5 – 6:  SC around. (15)

FO leaving a long tail for sewing.  Flatten piece. Do NOT stuff.

Thread yarn tail onto a tapestry needle and use the yarn tail to sew the Tail to the end of the body, working along the open edge of the Tail.

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• Bubba Bird
  
  
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• Bob & Betty Bird (video with step-by-step instructions!)

Beak

Using worsted weight yarn and smaller hook, CH 8.

Round 1: SC in the 2nd CH from the hook and the next 5 CHs.  Work 3 SCs in the last CH. Working on the other side of the chain, SC 5. SCINC in the last CH. (16)

Round 2: SCINC, SC 5, (SCINC) x 3, SC 5, (SCINC) x 2. (22)

Round 3 – 4: SC around. (22)

Gauge Check: Piece should measure 1.5” across along the longest point.

Round 5: SCINC, SC, SCINC, SC 5, (SCINC, SC) x 2, SCINC, SC 7, SCINC, SC. (28)

Rounds 6 – 13:  SC around. (28)

FO using invisible join (see special stitches & techniques) and leaving a long tail for sewing.  Stuff the Beak and use tail to sew Beak to the top of the Head & Body.

Legs (Make 2)

Using worsted weight yarn and smaller hook, CH 12.

Round 1: SCINC in the 2^nd CH from the hook, SC in the next 9 CHs.  Work 3 SCs in the last CH. Working on the other side of the chain, SC 10. (24)

Rounds 2 – 8: SC around. (24)

Round 9: (SCDEC) x 2, SC 8, (SCDEC) x 2, SC 8. (20)

Round 10: SC around. (20)

Round 11: SCDEC, SC 8, SCDEC, SC 8. (18)

Round 12: SCDEC, SC 6, (SCDEC) x 2, SC 4, SCDEC. (14)

Round 13: SC around. (14)

Round 14: SCDEC, SC 5, SCDEC, SC 5. (12)

Rounds 15 – 35: SC around. (12) – start to lightly stuff the Legs (Rounds 15 – 35), flattening the foot (Rounds 1 – 14). 

Do not add stuffing to the foot.

FO leaving a long tail for sewing.  Flatten the top of the piece and whip stitch closed with yarn tail.  Use the remaining yarn tail to sew the Legs to the underside of the body.  Weave in ends.

I’d love to see your finished Bruce made with this free crochet goose pattern!  Please share your finished makes by tagging the pattern on Ravelry, sharing it to our Facebook page or Instagram.  Don’t forget to follow me on Facebook, Instagram and Pinterest 

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