Learn how to crochet a cone with this easy tutorial. In this blog post, you’ll learn how to crochet a cone and the tools you need to learn what kind of cone to pick for your next project. In this cone free pattern, I’m going to show you multiple ways to crochet a cone shape and how the placement of your increase stitches affects the shape of your cone.
Knowing how to crochet a cone shape is a versatile skill to have, particularly if you like to crochet amigurumi toys. Cones are basic shapes that are used to create horns, tusks, ice cream cones, a witch hat or gnome hat, a christmas tree, carrots and so much more!
So whether you want to make a tiny key chain or a taller tree crochet cone tree, cones can be useful in all shapes and sizes
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Table of contents
- Materials you Need to Crochet a Cone :
- How to Crochet A Cone Adding Increases Every Round
- Crochet Cones Working One Increase Per Round Cone (Narrow Cone)
- Two Increases Per Round Cone (Medium Cone)
- Three Increases Per Round (Wide Cone)
- Four or More Increases Per Round
- How to Crochet A Cone With Increases Every Other Round
- Two Increases, Every Other Round
- Three Increases, Every Other Round:
- Six Increases, Every Other Round Cone:
- How to Choose the Right Cone Shape
- Ways to Customize and Play With Cones to Make Your Own Patterns
- Common Crochet Cone Questions (FAQ)
When using this technique for amigurumi, you’ll need to ensure you have a tight, even tension. If you aren’t following an amigurumi pattern with a recommended hook size and yarn, I recommend starting with an E / 3.5 mm crochet hook and worsted weight yarn.
In amigurumi crochet, single crochet stitches help to give shapes structure. You can use this technique with another stitch, like double crochet to create an elf or santa hat, it just won’t have the same structure as piece made with single crochet.
For this tutorial, I’m going to show you how to crochet a cone in a continuous spiral but the same technique can be utilized to create a cone in turned and / or joined rounds (joining at the end of the round with a slip stitch / sl st).
These cones are worked from the tip of the cone and up however, you can work in the opposite direction as well. You would work from the opening of the cone (the last round) and substitute single crochet decreases (sc dec) for increase stitches.
The below cones were all created with 6 single crochet stitches worked into a magic ring. But how you distribute your increases changes how quickly the cone flairs out.
Skill Level:
- Easy
Materials you Need to Crochet a Cone :
- 3.5 mm (E) Crochet Hook
- Worsted Weight Yarn – (I’m using Brava Worsted Weight yarn from WeCrochet)
- Stitch Marker
- Tapestry Needle / Yarn Needle
- Polyester Stuffing
- Scissors
Abbreviations (U.S. Terminology):
- CH = Chain
- MC = Magic Circle / Magic Ring / Magic Loop
- SC = Single Crochet
- SC INC = Single Crochet Increase / 2 SC Stitches in the Same Stitch
- ST(s) = Stitch(es)
Notes:
- Gauge isn’t vital to creating a cone but ensure that you choose an appropriately sized crochet hook for your yarn. If you’re planning on stuffing your cone with polyfill/stuffing make sure that your stitches are tight enough to prevent the stuffing from showing through. If your holes are too big, try going down a hook size until they are small enough to hide the stuffing.
- New to reading crochet patterns? Here’s a quick run down of how to read these patterns: the instructions in the third round of the cone in the second picture (the pink cone) reads: Round 3: (SC 3, SCINC) x 2. (10). You would work 1 sc stitch into each of the first 3 stitches then work a single crochet increase (2 scs in the same stitch) into the next stitch and you would repeat that pattern 2 times. The number in brackets at the end of the instructions is the number of stitches you should have at the end of that round.
- Take a moment to count the stitches in the previous round / the round you just did before moving onto the next round to ensure that you have the right number of stitches. If you have fewer stitches than expected, look back to see if you can find the missing stitch(es). If you can’t find it, pull the round out and try again to ensure you have the right number of stitches before moving onto the next round.
- When working amigurumi pieces, the right side of the fabric should be facing you when you/facing outwards.
How to Crochet A Cone Adding Increases Every Round
These first three cones all have an increase stitch (two single crochet stitches worked in the same stitch) happening every round of the project. How quickly the cone flares out depends on how many increase stitches that you add each round.
This kind of cone requires a little more counting and thinking to make sure you always have the right amount of stitches and to ensure your cone increases evenly.
Crochet Cones Working One Increase Per Round Cone (Narrow Cone)
This is the most narrow of all the cones. Without the increase, in each round, you would crochet a tube. Working one increase per round creates a slow, subtle flare.
I prefer not to stack my increases so that they are less visible so you’ll see that they aren’t placed on top of each other in the pattern.
Round 1: Make a MC and SC 6 into the MC. Pull the ring tight. (6)
Note: Place a stitch marker in the first stitch you did to mark the first stitch of the round. We will move this up each consecutive round we work.
Round 2: SC 5, SCINC. (7)
Round 3: SC 3, SCINC, SC 3. (8)
Round 4: SCINC, SC 7. (9)
Round 5: SC 4, SCINC, SC 4. (10)
Round 6: SC 9, SCINC. (11)
Round 7: SC 5, SCINC, SC 5. (12)
Round 8: SCINC, SC 11. (13)
Round 9: SC 6, SCINC, SC 6. (14)
Round 10: SC 13, SCINC. (15)
To continue with your cone, you would continue to increase 1 stitch per round until it reaches your desired size. If you’re stuffing your cone, make sure that you are stuffing as you go to ensure the the tip of your cone is stuffed properly and your piece is evenly stuffed.
Two Increases Per Round Cone (Medium Cone)
This cone starts to flare out at a faster rate than the previous cone. Again, I’ve off set the increase stitches slightly to make the cone more even as well as to make the increases slightly less visible.
Round 10: SC 5, SCINC, SC 10, SCINC, SC 5. (24)
To continue with your cone, you would continue to increase 2 stitches per round until it reaches your desired size.
As mentioned in the previous cone, make sure that if you are stuffing your cone with polyfill stuffing to stuff your cone as you work.
Three Increases Per Round (Wide Cone)
This cone I made using green yarn starts to flare out at an even faster rate than the previous two cones. Again, I’ve off set the increase stitches slightly to make the cone more even as well as to make the increases slightly less visible.
Round 1: Make a MC and SC 6 into the MC. Pull the ring tight. (6)
Note: Place a stitch marker in the first stitch you did to mark the first stitch of the round. We will move this up each consecutive round we work.
Round 2: (SC, SCINC) x 3. (9)
Round 3: SC, (SCINC, SC 2) x 2, SCINC, SC. (12)
Round 4: (SCINC, SC 3) x 3. (15)
Round 5: SC 2, (SCINC, SC 4) x 2, SCINC, SC 2. (18)
Round 6: (SC 5, SCINC) x 3. (21)
Round 7: SC 3, (SCINC, SC 6) x 2, SCINC, SC 3. (24)
Round 8: (SCINC, SC 7) x 3. (27)
Round 9: SC 4, (SCINC, SC 8) x 2, SCINC, SC 4. (30)
Round 10: (SC 9, SCINC) x 3. (33)
To continue with your cone, you would continue to increase 3 stitches per round until it reaches your desired size.
Four or More Increases Per Round
You could go beyond 3 increases per round and do 4 increases or even 5 increases per round but honestly, not many designers/makers utilize these because of how tedious it can be to keep their distribution even throughout the cone.
The more increases you add per round, the quicker your cone will flare out and the more rounded looking it will become.
How to Crochet A Cone With Increases Every Other Round
This is my preferred way to crochet a cone because you are increasing your stitches every other round instead of every round. The rounds after you have done an increase are done in just single crochet stitches, giving you a bit of a mental break.
Below I’ll show you the differences as well as how to make three different cones by increasing every other round.
Two Increases, Every Other Round
This cone starts to flare out at a slow rate and works well for making crochet carrots. Again, I’ve off set the increase stitches slightly to make the cone more even as well as to make the increases slightly less visible.
Round 1: Make a MC and SC 6 into the MC. Pull the ring tight. (6)
Note: Place a stitch marker in the first stitch you did to mark the first stitch of the round. We will move this up each consecutive round we work.
Round 2: (SCINC, SC 2) x 2. (8)
Round 3: SC around. (8)
Round 4: (SC 3, SCINC) x 2. (10)
Round 5: SC around. (10)
Round 6: (SCINC, SC 4) x 2. (12)
Round 7: SC around (12)
Round 8:(SC 5, SCINC) x 2. (14)
Round 9: SC around (14)
Round 10: (SCINC, SC 6) x 2. (16)
Round 11: SC around (16)
To continue with your cone, you would continue to increase 2 stitches per round, every other round until it reaches your desired size.
As mentioned in the previous cone, make sure that if you are stuffing your cone with polyfill stuffing to stuff your cone as you work.
Three Increases, Every Other Round:
This cone starts to flare out at an even faster rate than the previous cone. Again, I’ve offset the increase stitches slightly to make the cone more even as well as to make the increases slightly less visible.
Round 1: Make a MC and SC 6 into the MC. Pull the ring tight. (6)
Note: Place a stitch marker in the first stitch you did to mark the first stitch of the round. We will move this up each consecutive round we work.
Round 2: (SC, SCINC) x 3. (9)
Round 3: SC around. (6)
Round 4: SC, (SCINC, SC 2) x 2, SCINC, SC. (12)
Round 5: SC around. (12)
Round 6: (SCINC, SC 3) x 3. (15)
Round 7: SC around. (15)
Round 8: SC 2, (SCINC, SC 4) x 2, SCINC, SC 2. (18)
round 9: SC around. (18)
Round 10: (SC 5, SCINC) x 3. (21)
Round 11: SC around. (21)
To continue with your cone, you would continue to increase 3 stitches per round every other round until it reaches your desired size.
Six Increases, Every Other Round Cone:
This cone starts to flare out at the fastest rate of all the cones we have discussed. Again, increases are offset in this cone as we’ve done previously so increases are not worked into previous increases.
This is the blue cone in the photo showing the cone scale below.
Round 1: Make a MC and SC 6 into the MC. Pull the ring tight. (6)
Note: Place a stitch marker in the first stitch you did to mark the first stitch of the round. We will move this up each consecutive round we work.
Round 2: (SCINC) x 6. (12)
Round 3: SC around. (12)
Round 4: (SC, SCINC) x 6. (18)
Round 5: SC around. (18)
Round 6: SC, SCINC, (SC 2, SCINC) x 5, SC. (24)
Round 7: SC around. (24)
Round 8: (SC 3, SCINC) x 6. (30)
round 9: SC around. (30)
Round 10: SC 2, SCINC, (SC 4, SCINC) x 5, SC 2. (36)
Round 11: SC around. (36)
To continue with your cone, you would continue to increase 6 stitches per round every other round until it reaches your desired size.
Here I have lined up all the cones that we have covered in this tutorial so that you can see what they look like side-by-side so that you can see the differences between them all. This can help you to choose what kind of cone you’d like to choose as a starting point for your next project.
How to Choose the Right Cone Shape
Not all crochet cones are created equal! The type of cone you choose really depends on what you want to make. A narrow cone works beautifully for tusks and horns, while a wider cone might be better for a hat, tree, or ice cream cone.
If you’ve ever followed a pattern and thought, “Hmm… this cone doesn’t look quite right,” chances are the number and placement of increases just wasn’t the best fit for your project. Understanding how different cone shapes behave will help you pick the perfect one every time.
Below, I’ll walk you through how to compare cone shapes and how to decide which style works best for different kinds of projects.
Comparing Cone Shapes Side-by-Side
One of the easiest ways to understand crochet cones is to look at them next to each other. Even though all cones start the same way – with a magic circle and a few stitches – the way you add increases makes a huge difference in the final shape.
- Fewer increases per round create a tall, narrow cone with a gentle flare.
- More increases per round create a shorter, wider cone that opens up quickly.
- Increasing every other round gives you a smoother, more gradual shape that’s great for amigurumi.
If you’re not sure which cone to use, try crocheting a small sample of two or three different versions. Seeing them in real life makes it much easier to choose the best fit for your project.
Ways to Customize and Play With Cones to Make Your Own Patterns
- Change color every few rounds to create a striped cone (avoid jags in your color by using the invisible finish/join technique).
- Make cones of various sizes and make pom poms of different sizes and colors for kids to make their own ice cream cone play set. Alternatively, use the cones and crochet a topper to make a fully crocheted ice cream cone.
- Create a large cone shape and place it over a foam cone to make a tall cone tree.
- Make an orange cone, add safety eyes and give a crochet carrot some attitude like I did with my Carter the Carrot free crochet pattern.
- Make Gnome hats like I did in my Gnome Christmas Tree Ornament Free Pattern & Video Tutorial.
- Make a Narwhal tusk with a white cone like I did in my Ned the Narwal & Wanda the Whale Free pattern.
Common Crochet Cone Questions (FAQ)
If your cone is curling inward, it often means one of two things:
– You aren’t adding enough increase stitches for the shape you want
– Your tension is too tight
Try adding more increases per round or go up a hook size or two to loosen your stitches slightly. This should help your cone lay the way you expect.
To make a taller cone, add more rounds to your project, based on the type of cone you are making, ensuring you’re following the same formula as you go.
Absolutely! If you don’t like to use the magic ring, you can start your cone with a chain instead.
To do this:
– Chain 2.
– Work your round 1 stitches into the second chain from the hook.
The result is almost the same, though the magic circle will give you a tighter, cleaner tip.
Visible increase lines are a super common frustration when crocheting amigurumi. The easiest way tot hide them is to offset your increases instead of stacking them in the same place each round.
Yes,you can absolutely crochet a cone in reverse!
Here’s the basic idea:
To crochet a cone from the opening down to the tip, you’ll need to know three things first: what size opening you want, how many stitches your cone should start with, what cone shape you’re aiming for
Then follow these steps:
– Create a foundation chain that matches the number of stitches you want at the opening of your cone.
– Join the last chain to the first chain with a slip stitch to form a ring. Be careful not to twist the chain.
– Work one single crochet into each chain around to complete your first round.
From this point on, you can work your cone in joined rounds or in a continuous spiral, whichever method you prefer.
After Round 1, simply reverse the process you would normally use:
Wherever you would have worked an increase when crocheting from the tip up,
work a decrease instead when crocheting from the opening down.
For example, if the cone pattern normally increases 2 stitches per round, you’ll decrease 2 stitches per round instead. Continue decreasing in this way until you reach the tip of your cone.
This method is especially helpful if you’re trying to match a specific opening size or fit your cone over an existing object like a foam form.
Related Tutorials
I hope that you enjoyed this how to crochet a cone tutorial! Want to learn something else? Check out my how to crochet a flat circle tutorial (includes a free crochet pattern) or my Ultimate Guide to Softening Acrylic Yarn. Happy crocheting!
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