Looking for a quick and easy crochet mittens pattern? These Norse Crochet Mittens use a simple stitch pattern and super bulky weight yarn so they work up in a flash. They are great pattern for experienced beginners wanting to make their first pair of crochet mittens or for those that just want a quick and simple crochet project to work on while watching their favourite movie.
Regardless of your motivation for making them, these crochet mittens will be a cozy addition to any winter wardobe.
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*This post may contain affiliate links, which means that I may earn a small commission from qualifying purchases made through these links. All opinions are my own.*

Great For Beginners
These cozy crochet mittens are great for beginners because they use basic stitches like single crochet stitches, double crochet stitches and half double crochet. I have a full video tutorial available (as well as photo tutorials) for each of these stitches. If you need to access them, click on the stitch name in the Abbreviations list before the written pattern .
Another reason these easy mittens are great for beginners is because the left hand and right hand mitten are made the same way. This means that you’ll be using the same pattern for both hands. It’s also super convenient to wear because you don’t need to worry about putting them on the wrong hand. These cute mittens make a great gift for the holiday season.
About The Yarn Used in This Pattern
This crochet mittens pattern was designed using Patons Norse yarn. This yarn is a blended yarn comprised of 54% arcylic, 28% wool and 18% polyester. It has a brushed halo effect which gives these crochet mittens their fuzzy appearance. The halo does make seeing the stitches a bit more difficult than normal but they aren’t impossible to see and you can definitely feel the stitches.
This pattern uses only a single ball of Patons Norse Yarn! This free crochet pattern uses only a single ball of Patons Norse Yarn and makes a light weight but cozy pair of mittens!
Get an ad-free PDF version of this pattern in my Ravelry or Etsy shops.
Yarn Substitutes
Patons Norse yarn is no longer available, unfortunately. These yarns would make great substitutes:

How These Crochet Mittens Are Constructed
The Norse Crochet Mittens are worked from the top-down (fingertips to wrist) in joined rounds. Because of the halo effect of the yarn, I recommend utilizing a stitch marker to mark the beginning of every round even though you won’t be working in a continuous spiral.
After working the top of the mitten to the knuckles, we’ll add on the opening for the thumb. Then we’ll work some shaping to taper the mitten to the wrist and then the ribbed cuff is added.
After completing the body of the mitten, the thumb is added. This is done by attaching your yarn to the opening we created for the mitten and crocheting around that hole.
The thumb is worked from the base up with some basic tapering worked up to the tip. Then the top of the thumb is sewn closed and the ends are woven in. That’s it! Ready to get started making your own Norse Crochet Mittens?

Disclaimer:
Feel free to sell the item created by this pattern but please provide pattern credit back to me when posting online, and please provide a link to my blog: www.theloopylamb.com. Please do not resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern in any printed or digital form, or claim this pattern as your own original design. Please do not use my photos when selling your finished items.
Skill Level:
- Easy
Terminology:
- US Terminology
Supplies:
- J / 6.0 mm crochet hook
- Patons Norse Yarn (54% Acrylic, 28% Wool, 18% Polyester, Super Bulky (6), 211yds/193m, 100g/3.5oz), 1 skein of:
- Teal Blue (or preferred color) – approx. 125 yards/115m (2.1 oz/59.5g)
- Teal Blue (or preferred color) – approx. 125 yards/115m (2.1 oz/59.5g)
- Tapestry Needle / Yarn Needle
- Scissors
- Stitch Markers
Abbreviations:
- BPDC = Back Post Double Crochet
- CH(s) = Chain(s)
- DC = Double Crochet
- FO = Finish Off
- FPDC = Front Post Double Crochet
- FLO = Front Loop Only
- HDC = Half Double Crochet
- HDCDEC = Half Double Crochet Decrease
- HDCINC = Half Double Crochet Increase/2 HDC STs worked into the same ST
- MC = Magic Circle
- SC = Single Crochet
- SK = Skip
- SL ST = Slip Stitch
- ST(s) = Stitch(es)
Finished Adult Size:
- One Size Fits Most Adults
- Approx. 9.5” long from top of mitten to bottom of ribbing, 4” wide across top of mitten. 4.5” wide at widest point of mitten. (see Notes on adjusting size)
- Approx. 9.5” long from top of mitten to bottom of ribbing, 4” wide across top of mitten. 4.5” wide at widest point of mitten. (see Notes on adjusting size)
Gauge:
- 6 sts x 5 rows = 2 inches
Notes:
- Gauge is vital to this free pattern to ensure that it fits as expected. Not matching gauge may not only affect the size of your finished project but how much yarn is needed to complete it. A 6.0 mm hook is the recommended hook size for this pattern however, choose whatever hook size helps you to meet the gauge given for this pattern.
- Note on Yarn: Patons Norse Yarn works up thinner than a standard Super Bulky yarn weight so some Bulky yarn (5) and heavy Aran weight yarn may be good substitutes. Always check gauge before using the yarn to ensure it will fit. Yarnsub.com is a good place to find yarn subs.
- Note on Yarn: Patons Norse Yarn works up thinner than a standard Super Bulky yarn weight so some Bulky yarn (5) and heavy Aran weight yarn may be good substitutes. Always check gauge before using the yarn to ensure it will fit. Yarnsub.com is a good place to find yarn subs.
- Maintaining an accurate stitch count is important. I recommend counting your stitches at the end of the Round / round before moving onto the next Round. Numbers given in () at the end of the round of instructions indicate the number of stitches you should have at the end of the round.
- This mitten pattern is worked in the round and the end of each round is joined to the first stitch of the round using a slip stitch. I recommend using a stitch marker to mark the first and last stitch of every round (or at the minimum, just the first stitch) to avoid skipping or adding extra stitches.
- The pattern for the mitten is the same for both hands.
- This pattern is worked from the top of the mitten to the bottom (fingers to cuff), so that you can try the mittens on to get the best fit. We create the fingers first, the thumbhole is created in Round 15 and then we finish with the ribbed cuff.
- Reading the Pattern:
- Pattern example 1: *HDC, HDCINC, repeat from * 7 more times. (24)
- This means you will:
- Half Double Crochet in the first stitch
- Work two Half Double Crochets in the next stitch.
- Then you would repeat this pattern of Half Double Crochet, Half Double Crochet Increase a total of eight (8) times (once for the first read through and then seven (7) more times after that).
- Pattern example 2: (HDCDEC) x 2
- This means you will:
- Half Double Crochet Decrease 2 times (over the next 4 stitches – HDCDEC then HDCDEC again), which will eliminate 2 stitches from your stitch count
- Pattern example 3: HDC, CH 6, SK 2 STs, HDC 21.
- This means you will:
- HDC in the first stitch
- CH 6 and skip 2 stitches to create the thumb hole
- HDC once in each of the next 21 stitches
- Pattern example 1: *HDC, HDCINC, repeat from * 7 more times. (24)
- Magic Circle Substitution: If you struggle with the magic circle and need a substitute, create a CH 2 and work all Round 1 stitches into the 2nd CH from the hook. Then continue with the pattern as written.
- Adjusting the body of the mitten: I suggest trying on the mittens after Round 14 to see how they fit. If the finger section is too long, take out/omit rounds of half double crochet stitches from Rounds 4 – 14 until you find your preferred length. The fingers/body of the mitten should comfortably cover your fingers with the last round sitting the thumb webbing (the space between your thumb and pointer finger). If the finger section isn’t long enough, add extra rounds of single crochet stitches until you are satisfied with the length. Make note of any changes you make so that you can repeat it in the second mitten. These changes will affect how much yarn is used for your mittens.
- Adjusting the length of the thumb of the mitten: I suggest trying on the mittens again after completing Round 5 of the Thumb to check the fit. If the thumb is too long, remove or omit rounds of single crochet stitches from Rounds 4 – 5 until you are satisfied with the length, keeping in mind that you will add 2 more rounds to close the top of the thumb. If the thumb is too short, simply add extra rounds of half double crochet stitches until you are satisfied with the length. Make note of any changes so that you make so you can repeat it in the second mitten. These changes will affect how much yarn is used for your mittens.
- Adjusting the length of the cuff: Prefer a shorter cuff? Omit rows of back and front post double crochet stitches from Rounds 22 – 23 or substitute rows of single crochet until you have your desired length. Prefer a longer cuff or maybe a double cuff? Repeat Rounds 22 – 23 until you have reached your desired length.
Get an ad-free PDF version of this pattern in my Ravelry or Etsy shops.
Norse Crochet Mittens – Free Crochet Mittens Pattern

Mittens (Make Two)
Round 1: Make a MC and HDC 8 into the MC. Join last ST to the first ST with a SL ST (from here on out referred to as “Join”). (8)
Round 2: CH 1. HDCINC in the first ST and each ST around. Join. (16)
Round 3: CH 1. *HDC, HDCINC, repeat from * 7 more times. Join. (24)
Rounds 4 -14: CH 1. HDC in the first ST and in each ST around. Join. (24)
Round 15: CH 1. HDC, CH 6, SK 2 STs, HDC 21. Join. (22 sts and 6 CHs)
Round 16: CH 1. HDC, HDC 6 in the CH space. HDC 21. Join. (28)
Rounds 17 – 18: CH 1. HDC in the first ST and each ST around. Join. (28)
Round 19: CH 1. HDC 2, HDCDEC, HDC 3, HDCDEC, HDC 19. Join. (26)
Round 20: CH 1. HDC 4, (HDCDEC) x 2, HDC 8, (HDCDEC) x 2, HDC 6. (22)
Round 21: CH 2 (counts as first ST). SK the first ST, DC in the 2nd ST and each ST around. Join to the top of the CH 2 with a SL ST. (22)
Rounds 22 – 23: CH 1. *FPDC around the first ST, BPDC around the next ST, repeat from * around. Join. (22)
Round 24: CH 1. SC in the first ST and each ST around. Join. (22)
FO and weave in ends.

If you’re looking for the pattern for the hat I’m wearing in this picture, it can be found here: The Juneau Blues Beanie.
Looking for more free crochet mittens patterns? Check these out!:



- Into the Sunset Crochet Mitten Pattern
- One Hank Wonder Mittens – Uses worsted weight yarn
- Mommy’s Go-To Fingerless Gloves
Thumb
Round 1: Attach your yarn to the thumb hole using a SL ST. CH 1 and HDC 12 evenly around the thumb hole. Join. (12)
Round 2: CH 1. HDC in the first ST and each ST around. Join. (12)
Round 3: CH 1. HDC 3, HDCDEC, HDC 3, HDCDEC, HDC 2. Join. (10)
Rounds 4 – 5: CH 1. HDC in the first ST and each ST around. Join. (10)
Round 6: CH 1. HDC 2, HDCDEC, HDC 2, HDCDEC, HDC 2. Join. (8)
Round 7: CH 1. (HDCDEC) x 4. Join. (4)
FO and weave the yarn tail through the FLO of the last Round to sew the hole shut. Weave in ends.
That’s it! I hope you enjoy your beautiful mittens during the cold winter months for years to come! If you share your chunky mittens on social media, please tag me @theloopylamb or use the #theloopylamb so that I can see your beautiful work.
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I hope you enjoyed this free crochet mittens pattern. While you’re here check out some of my other free crochet patterns: The Aeipathy Beanie, The Catena Hat, The Heather Super Scarf and The Crochet Tartan Cowl and Beanie.





Solid easy pattern! I’ve made mittens before but this was so quick and straightforward! Thank you!
You’re welcome! I’m so glad you enjoyed it 🙂
I just finished your Norse mittens. My very first time crocheting mittens. They turned out great! I used Bernat Forever Fleece to match a scarf I had made previously. Thanks for the free pattern!
you’re welcome! I’m so glad that you love them. Bernat Forever Fleece would make some cozy mittens.
What kind of stitch is used for the swatch please
half double crochet. If a pattern doesn’t state the stitch that is utilized for the pattern, always use the main stitch of the pattern, which in this case, is half double crochet 🙂
Good Day Ashley,
I have a question regarding a stitch. On Row 21, you said to “DC in the 2nd stitch each stitch around.” What is the 2nd stitch? Do you mean the back loop?
Please advise and thank you.
Hi Wendy,
Looks like the word and was missing there (and has been updated). It should say DC in the 2nd ST and each ST around. Since the CH 2 counts as the first ST, you start in the 2nd St of the round. I hope this helps.
thank you for such a nice quick pattern.
you’re welcome 🙂
what happened to row 20?
Thanks for noting this! I was making some changes in the back end of the blog and I didn’t notice it reverted to my last draft of the pattern. I’ve updated the numbers. The pattern is correct, the row numbering was off.
I’m trying to use my stash and want to make some mittens to donate. Do you think I could use 2 strands of #4 yarn? Or, should I find a thermal crochet or Tunisian pattern? Thank you!
Hi Laureen,
You’d have to check your gauge with two strands of worsted-weight yarn to see if you can match the gauge given in the pattern. If you can match it, then you can do it 🙂