This cozy crochet cable hat is beautiful and full of texture. In this project, I’ll show you how to crochet cables in a way that is (in my opinion) the easiest way of crocheting cables. The cable pattern is crocheted only on the right side of the fabric, there are no tricky backcrosses and the fabric is solid with little to no holes in it. In addition to the free written pattern, I’ve included a free video tutorial showing you how to do the special stitches used in this free crochet cable hat pattern.
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Grab a printable, ad-free PDF version of this pattern which includes a stitch diagram for the cables as well as a photo tutorial for the cables in my Ravelry and Etsy shops.
I am obsessed with cable stitches – whether it’s knit or crochet, I love them. When I first started crocheting cables, I would get frustrated with my projects because I’d always have these big holes behind my cables. Even a great pattern would have these little annoying holes.
I live in Canada and it is C-O-L-D so I wanted my hat to have extra warmth that the traditional cable techniques weren’t giving me. I became so frustrated, I stopped crocheting cables.
When I discovered doing crochet cables in the way that I’ll show you in this crochet hat pattern, it reignited my passion for cables. It not only made cable work easier (and faster) it made it that little bit warmer because there are little to no holes in the fabric.
After making my first Lakeview Cabled Beanie, I couldn’t stop and just had to share this as a free crochet cable hat pattern with you so that you could make your own as well!
How is this crochet cable technique different?
In this technique, every other row is done in only single crochet. The cables are done on odd-numbered rows (which is the right side of the fabric), meaning that the cables sit on top of the single crochet stitch background. Those short stitches help to create a solid fabric behind the cables and help to minimize holes that you get in traditional crochet cable work.
I’ve designed the cables in this free crochet cable hat pattern to only use front-crosses. That means that you’re not having to dig in behind stitches in a frantic search to (hopefully) find the next stitch to work into.
Although this says it’s an intermediate crochet pattern, it is totally accessible to adventurous beginners that know how to do single crochet, double crochet and post stitches. That video tutorial for the cables is there to support you should you get stuck on the cables.
The Yarn Used In This Crochet Hat Pattern
I used a wonderful wool yarn called King Cole Wildwood Chunky in this cable stitch hat. Wool yarn generally lends great stitch definition to crochet patterns and really makes your cables pop. This yarn a bulky (5) weight yarn however I found it to be a bit on the thinner size of bulky so if you have a medium weight yarn that you’d like to use that you can match gauge with, then you can do that. Just make sure that whatever skein of yarn you use, has at least 250 yards in it.
Other Great Patterns for Crochet Hats to Check Out
- Shifting Posts Hat
- Snowella Snowman Hat – available in baby and child size
- Savvy Muse Beanie
Feel free to sell the finished product created by this free pattern but please provide pattern credit back to me when posting online, and please provide a link to my blog: https://www.theloopylamb.com. Please do not resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern in any printed or digital form, or claim this pattern as your own original design. Please do not use my photos when selling your finished items. This pattern is for personal use only.
- U.S. Terminology
- I / 5.5 mm Crochet Hook (or whatever mm hook size needed to match gauge)
- King Cole Wildwood Chunky (100% Wool, Bulky (5), 207 yds/189 m, 100g/3.5oz), 2 skeins (approx. 250 yds) in Lake (find it at your local yarn store or on Amazon)
- Tape Measure
- Tapestry Needle / Yarn Needle
- 5” Faux Fur Pom pom (Optional)
- Stitch Markers (Optional)
- BLO = Back Loop Only
- CH = Chain
- CH SP(s) = Chain Space(s)
- CR2F = Cross 2 in Front (see Special Stitches)
- CR4F = Cross 4 in Front (see Special Stitches)
- DC = Double Crochet
- FPDC = Front Post Double Crochet (see Special Stitches)
- FPPOP = Front Post Popcorn (see Special Stitches)
- FO = Finish Off
- Rep = Repeat
- RS = Right Side
- SC = Single Crochet
- SCDEC = Single Crochet Decrease
- SK = Skip
- SL ST = Slip Stitch
- SP(s) = Space(s)
- ST(s) = Stitch(es)
- WS = Wrong Side
- YO = Yarn Over
Special Stitches and Techniques:
- Cross 2 in Front (CR2F): SK next ST, FPDC around post of next ST, 2 rows below. Working in front of the last ST made, FPDC around post of skipped ST, 2 rows below.
- Cross 4 in Front (CR4F): SK next 2 STs, FPDC around post of each of next 2 STs, 2 rows below. Working in front of the last 2 STs made, FPDC around post of each of 2 skipped STs, 2 rows below.
- Front Post Double Crochet (FPDC): *YO, insert hook from front to back and back to front around the post of the indicated ST and pull up a loop. YO and pull through first 2 loops on hook. YO and pull through last two loops on hook.
- Front Post Popcorn (FPPOP): *YO, insert hook from front to back and back to front around the post of the SC 3 rows below and pull up a loop. YO and pull through first 2 loops on hook. YO and pull through last two loops on hook. Repeat from * 2 more times. Remove hook from the loop on your hook and insert the hook through the first DC you made from front to back. Place loop back on your hook and pull through the first DC.
- 10” across x 8.5” tall when laid flat (not including pompom).
- Adult Size: Fits Adults with Head Circumference 20 – 22”.
- Approx. 15 sts x 23 rows = 4 inches in SC.
- Gauge is important for ensuring that your hat fits properly. Use whatever hook size is needed to match gauge.
- This pattern is worked back and forth in joined and turned rounds from the bottom-up.
- CH 1 at the beginning of rows does not count as a stitch.
- Skip stitches behind post stitches.
- All FPDC, CR2F and CR4F stitches are worked around the post of the indicated stitch two rows below (i.e. If you’re working on instructions for Row 3, you are working into Row 1).
- A crochet stitch chart / diagram is available for this design in the printable PDF version of the pattern available in my Etsy and Ravelry shops.
- Optional: I recommend using stitch markers to keep track of the first and last stitch of each round to avoid confusion with the slip stitch.
Grab a printable, ad-free version of this pattern which includes a stitch diagram for the cables as well as detailed pictures for the cables in my Ravelry and Etsy shops.
Lakeview Cabled Beanie – Free Crochet Cable Hat Pattern Video Tutorial
Watch this tutorial on YouTube
Row 1: SC in 2nd CH from hook and each CH across. (7)
Row 2: CH 1 and turn. SC in first ST, BLO SC 5, working back under both loops SC in last ST. (7)
Repeat Row 2 until Brim measures 19” long when laid flat.
When completed, fold the band in half and SL ST the two sides together. Turn the piece so the seam is on the inside and the right side is facing you. Do NOT finish off. Continue on with Hat Body.
Row 1 (RS): CH 1. SC 76 evenly around the top of the brim. Join last stitch to the first stitch
with a SL ST. (From here on out referred to as “Join”.) (76)
Row 2 (WS): CH 1 and turn. SC in each ST around. Join. (76)
Row 3: CH 1 and turn. *FPDC around the first 2 STs, SC 2, FPDC 4, SC 2, FPDC 2, SC 7, repeat from * 3 more times. Join.
Row 4: CH 1 and turn. SC in each ST around. Join.
Row 5: CH 1 and turn. *FPDC around the first 2 STs, SC 2, FPDC 4, SC 2, FPDC 2, SC 3. FPPOP, SC 3, repeat from * 3 more times. Join.
Row 6: CH 1 and turn. SC in each ST around. Join.
Row 7: Repeat Row 3.
Row 8: CH 1 and turn. SC in each ST around. Join.
Row 9: CH 1 and turn. *CR2F, SC 2, CR4F, SC 2, CR2F, SC 7. Repeat from * 3 more times. Join.
Row 10: CH 1 and turn. SC in each ST around. Join.
Rows 11: Repeat Row 3.
Row 12: CH 1 and turn. SC in each ST around. Join.
Row 13: Repeat Row 5.
Row 14: CH 1 and turn. SC in each ST around. Join.
Row 15: Repeat Row 3.
Row 16: CH 1 and turn. SC in each ST around. Join.
Row 17: Repeat Row 9.
Rows 18 – 33: Repeat Rows 10 – 17 two more times.
Row 34: CH 1 and turn. SC in each ST around. Join.
Row 35: Repeat Row 3.
Row 36: CH 1 and turn. SC in each ST around. Join.
Row 37: Repeat Row 5.
Row 38: CH 1 and turn. SCDEC, (SC 10, SCDEC) x 6, SCDEC. (68)
Row 39: CH 1 and turn. FPDC 6, SCDEC, FPDC 2, SC 2, SCDEC, SC 2, FPDC 2, SC 2, FPDC 4, SC, FPDC 2, SC 2, SCDEC, SC 2, FPDC 2, SC 2, FPDC 4, SCDEC, FPDC 2, SC 2, SCDEC, SC 2, FPDC 2, SC 2, FPDC 4, SC, FPDC 2, SC 2, SCDEC, SC 2. Join. (62)
Row 40: CH 1 and turn. SCDEC, (SC 8, SCDEC) x 6. (55)
Row 41: CH 1 and turn. CR2F, CR4F, CR2F, SC, SCDEC, SC, CR2F, SC 2, CR4F, CR2F, SC, SCDEC 2, CR2F, SC, CR4F, SC, CR2F, SCDEC 2, CR2F, SCDEC, CR4F, CR2F, SCDEC 2. Join. (47)
FO leaving a long tail. Thread yarn tail onto tapestry needle and weave the yarn tail through every other ST in the last round. Pull yarn tail to cinch the top of the hat closed.
If using a pompom, use tail to sew the pompom onto the hat. If not, secure yarn tail on the inside of the hat and weave in ends.
I’d love to see your crochet creations made with this free crochet cable hat pattern! Share your amazing cabled hats with me on your favorite social media sites by tagging me @theloopylamb or using #theloopylamb in your posts.
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